By Rob Brown

“What is Speed Factory?” 

I found myself asking this same question after I started working at Braun’s under the tutelage of Winston Endall.  Speed Factory is the name of a group of programs he designed for cyclists of all ages and abilities, from the weekend warrior on up to the competitive triathlete. It encompasses everything from coaching to nutrition to custom bike building to getting the proper fit on your bike (which is way more important than you may think!). The idea behind Speed Factory is to incorporate everything that make you a better rider and have more fun in one program.

My very first exposure to Speed Factory was to the magic that is bike fitting and the resident wizard, Winston. At the time, I hadn’t been doing much cycling and had recently been commuting back and forth to work a few days a week. Even on my relatively short 40 minute 14km ride, I was getting wrist soreness, shoulder and neck pain, and some bad back pain that left me sore for the rest of the day. How could all of this pain possibly be coming from such a short ride?!

On arriving to work one day after about a week or so of suffering, I finally mentioned these aches and pains to Winston. He told me to throw the bike in the trainer for a fitting. I did, climbed on, and, on his instruction, pedaled away as he walked around me while observing every movement.  In no time at all, he told me that he saw what the problems were and explained as he worked what was happening and how his adjustments would fix it. Wrist pain? Fixed by a rotation of the handlebars to bring them back a few millimeters. Shoulder pain? Fixed by adjusting the saddle back and forth to balance my weight. Lower back pain? Turns out, my saddle was too high and I was getting too much leg extension which was making my hips rock. That was what was causing that awful soreness. He fixed it with a slight adjustment of the seat post.

After my next ride, I was absolutely blown away; all the former problems I was having were completely gone! Not only that, but I was shaving a few minutes off of my ride! All it took was a keen eye, a capable hand, and some seemingly minute adjustments that made a whole world of difference in my riding experience. I asked Winston what he did. “I just made the bike an extension of your body”, he explained. “Sometimes there are small adjustments, other times there are large adjustments. It all depends on the bike and the rider.”

Since that experience, I’ve been a huge supporter of getting your bike properly fit.  Not only have I had my bike fit but now I’ve been trained to fit other people.  Without a doubt, I can say that bike fitting is important and will  give you one of the most comfortable and efficient rides you’ve ever had.  No matter if you ride casually on the Rail Trail every weekend, commute, or race , Speed Factory has something for you.

By Morten Schmidt,  Team Braun’s Rider

Just saw this. Is he mad?
http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/01/cleat-position.html

Mad or not, he’s Joe Friel, author of the Bible (The cyclist’s Training Bible)

Incidentally, when Winston at Brauns in Cambridge did my bike fitting last month, he moved my Keo and Eggbeater cleats from pretty much the front most position (under ball of my foot) to as far back as they would go, both MTB and road shoes. Although not as radical as a mid-foot position, it’s going in the same direction, and this change is working out great so far with the road-bike on it’s trainer as well as the cross-bike out on the roads.

I’m not sure I will want to go all the way to mid-foot myself, as I want a similar setup on all my bikes, and I’m pretty sure I won’t like the wheel-toe overlap on the MTB – but I can’t help but be intrigued by this and wonder why we don’t see mid-foot cleat products starting to pop up in the mainstream.

Joe’s article is close to 5 years old now, has received many praises in the comments, and intuitively it does make sense to use your largest muscles to do most of the pedaling.

On the topic of bike fitting – to anyone who hasn’t had a real bike fitting, I recommend going to see Winston at Brauns in Cambridge. Go even if  you don’t have a specific problem like the knee injury I’ve been battling since October. Winston is a walking encyclopedia of cycling know-how, and the methodology he uses is solid and thorough. I brought in 3 of my bikes (Road, Cross and MTB), put them on a stationary trainer, and Winston observed and adjusted as I was working out. Knee alignment was checked with a laser.
Although I pretty much had my seat height and angle nailed, Winston worked with everything from handle-bar position to shoe insole wedges, and the result is a significant change to my existing position.

Prompted by the wedge adjustment Winston did and the initial improvements from this, I chose to also go see Pedorthist Mike Foregrave at Foot By Foot in Kitchener – and now have a set of custom orthotics that address my lack of any foot arch whatsoever – Mike is a cyclist himself and I’d like to recommend his work as well, for those who need it and can afford it (or have benefits coverage). But start with a bike fit first.

All in all, I now have a position on the bike that has my knees moving straight up/down, more open chest, and pelvis in a better position for utilizing the glutes (largest muscles in the body), and a cleat position that minimizes the angle of knee flexing (With foot down, angle is the same no matter where cleat is placed, but with foot up, knee angle is smaller with the cleat further back).

The pelvis position is similar to what is described in this Joe Friel blog: http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/09/road-bike-posture.html

I won’t say it’s easy to get used to. Definitely requires an investment in “getting used to” (strengthening of the lower back, and increasing glute flexibility). I’m glad I’m not riding the Centurion next week with this position, but I’m making progress already and confident I’ll get used to it before season start.

This knee problem has been stubborn, but It looks like it’s finally starting to wear off with the new bike fit, and I am one happy camper.

If you are looking to have a great season next Spring you need to train smart over the winter.  That means months of pedaling on the bike and cross training. Think how much more you would get from you training if you were fit to your bike properly.  Maximize your bike fit and you will maximize the effect of your training and minimize the chance of over-use injuries.

Think back on your rides this season. Did you suffer from any of the following symptoms?

• Numb or sore hands and wrists
• Pain in the knees or hips
• Numb or burning feet
• Sore butt or crotch including numbness of the unmentionables
• Pain the lower, middle or upper back including shoulders and neck
• Localized muscle soreness after a ride particularly in the quads or calves

If you did you will benefit from having your bike fit analyzed and adjusted to get your body into it’s natural position. The key to riding well is efficiency and comfort. If you are fighting with our bike, you are spending unnecessary energy that could be making your go faster.

Our Speed Factory Fitting System is a comprehensive approach to fitting that looks at your structural fitness on and off the bike. It lets us dynamically analyze your position and pedal stroke to optimize your body position and pedaling angle. We adjust the foot alignment including cleat set up, shimming for tilt and leg length imbalance and put in proper arch support. The feet are the foundation of your cycling house and a crooked foundation puts everything else out of balance.  In addition we recommend cross training and mobility work to improve your function on and off the bike.

The start of the off season is the perfect time to get your fit dialed in as you have the time to let your body adapt to the new position without missing any key events.

Get a leg up on the competition next season by getting your position personalized. Don’t settle for less.

Speed Factory Fitting is currently available at our Cambridge store (505 Hespeler Rd, Cambridge) but will be available at the other stores in the coming months.  Call 226-533-9090 Ex. 310 or email cambridge@brauns.com to book an appointment.

As a cyclist your knee is the main focus of all your power. If you develop knee problems, you’ve got a cycling problem. While you may get lucky and never have knee pain during your cycling career, for most of us it will happen at some point. The key is to reduce the factors that lead to knee pain and treat is properly when it does happen so it doesn’t become a chronic injury.

Follow these tips to help prevent knee issues and come back strong if you have them already.

Bike Fit

Seat height and saddle fore-aft position will have a big effect on how much shear force there is on the knee.  If you get pain in the front of the knee, you seat is probably too low or too far forward.  If it is in the back of the knee, your seat is too high.  A lot of pedaling with your seat in the wrong position can lead to over-use injuries in the knee. Luckily we specialize in bike fitting to dial in your fit to reduce the chance of over-use injuries due to bike fit issues.

Cleat and shoe setup

Cleat fore-aft position, angle and side to side position will change the angle the knee is getting loaded.  Being a single plane joint, the knee has a very small window of angle side to side that is healthy and safe. As with general bike fit this is best addressed by a professional bike fitter but here are a few tips to help you on your way.  Cleats further back on the shoe will reduce load on the knee.  If there is side to side movement of the knee through the pedal stroke, the stance width may to be adjusted or the foot may need to be adjusted for tilt with wedge shaped shims.
Don’t Over Do It

One you get off the trainer and get outside in the spring, you need to watch how much climbing you do.  Once the weather warms up, it isn’t unusual for a cyclist to over do it which can lead to tendinitis.  Start conservatively and build each week in a progressive manor.  Keep increases per week to 10%.  If you have been riding an hour a day on the trainer, don’t go out for a 3 hour hilly ride the first nice we get.

Warm-up Properly

Joints need to be warmed up just like muscles do. Depending on fitness level you should warm up for 10-30 minutes.  The fitter you are the longer the warm up you need. The first 5 to 10 minutes should be just easy spinning.  You don’t want to have hills at the beginning of the ride.  Once you’ve gotten your breathing up a bit and broken a sweat then you should do a few harder efforts to activate the lactate clearing system and increase blood flow. Proper warm up will decrease the chance of over use injuries and get the body ready for harder work.

Clean up Your Diet

Most knee pain is caused by inflammation. Depending on what you eat, you can either increase or decrease inflammation in the body.  Reduce processed carbs and saturated fats. Increase your intake of Omega 3 fatty acids, blue berries, strawberries, almonds, green tea, cinnamon, flax seed and extra virgin olive oil.

Overview

While this isn’t a comprehensive program for knee health, these tips will help you on your way to reducing the effects of wear and tear on the knee.  As a cyclist you need to safe guard your knees.  Proper set up on your bike, smart training and a healthy lifestyle will all help with this.

The Time Atac design has been around for a while now and while they keep upgrading them with new materials, the basic design has stayed the same because it works. Durable, easy to engage and very good in all weather conditions, the Atac pedals are a great option for mountain bikes, commuters and touring riders who want to be able walk when off the bike.  While there are many variations of the pedals including the Roc and Z-control downhill pedal, the mechanism functions the same for all of them.

Time has an Atac style pedal that will fit most budgets.  The least expensive, the Aluim, happens to also one of the most durable.  The pedal body is aluminum rather than a composite plastic so they stand up to getting banged off rocks and crashes better.  The Time mechanism uses two spring loaded bars to capture the cleat.  Like most clipless pedals, a simple heal twist will release your foot when you want dismount.  By swapping the cleats from shoe to shoe you can vary the release angle but most people do best with the cleats in the standard configuration.  The cleats are adjustable fore and aft but not side to side. The pedal mechanism has 5 mm of side to side float so this tends not to be a problem as your foot will find where it needs to be.

The pedal has a very open architecture which means they clear mud and snow really well.  Unlike the Shimano SPD style pedals there aren’t areas for mud to clog them up.  The only time I’ve ever had a problem clipping in is after walking in wet snow that gets packed up around the cleat.  A couple of kicks clears out the cleat allowing easy engagement.

In the line up of Time Atac pedals the Z-control stands apart for all-mountain and downhill use.  It has the same engagement mechanism but has a much larger platform to support the foot. I like the Z-control for use on my single speed mountain bike as the foot is supported better for long climbs out of the saddle. The platform is big enough that a quick spin in regular shoes is manageable.

As all the Time Atac pedals work the same it’s hard to recommend going to the high end carbon fiber / titanium options unless you are racing at a very high level.  The weight savings for the more expensive models isn’t a good value for the cost.

For any use where you need a clipless pedal but want to be able to walk normally when off the bike, the Time Atac pedals are my favourite option.  Easy to use, well priced and very tough.

Braun’s now offers Speed Factory Anatomical Bike Fitting

Whether you are buying a new bike or just want to make your existing bike ride better we can optimize your position to get the most power with the least discomfort.

Fit is the most important consideration when it comes to going fast on a bike.  Forget the fancy wheels and carbon fiber bits.  If the fit isn’t right you won’t be comfortable, you won’t perform up to your potential and it could lead to overuse injuries.

• Do you suffer from numb hands or feet?
• Is your back or butt sore after a ride?
• Are you as comfortable as you could be?
• Are you positioned to put out the most power you can?
• Does your bike feel like an extension of your body?

If you have a road bike and weren’t fitted, ask yourself are you getting all the performance you could?

Before you think about frame material or what wheels you want, think about bike fit.  Consider the fact that a 60 km ride equals more than 10,000 pedal strokes.  If you are riding an ill fitting bike you will be at best uncomfortable and slower than you could be, and worst case it can lead to injury.  Even with the correct sized frame you can still be uncomfortable if the seat, bars and pedals aren’t properly aligned for you.

We operate on the philosophy of adapting your bike to you, rather than the other way around.

For recreational riders it’s all about comfort. The right equipment with the right set up for you, leads to an enjoyable ride. Your butt and back don’t have to hurt.

For performance oriented riders and racers, it has to be a balance between performance, comfort and bio-mechanical alignment. I’ve been refining my fitting system for 14 years, using the most up-to-date research combined with the experience of fitting thousands of customers.

To get the your bike adjusted to you, I look at more than just your measurements. There is an interview where I talk about your athletic and injury history, comfort issues on the bike, riding goals and anything you might have done to try to fix any problems before coming to me.

Then we do a structural assessment. Most people have imbalances, whether in flexibility, strength or stability. By assessing which muscles may be tighter or weaker we can find and address the root cause of alignment and performance issues.

Only then do we get your on the bike.  Starting with your feet we work up until you have a total body alignment on your bike.  When your bike is fitted properly, you feel like you could fly.  Hill climbing is easier. 100 mile rides are much more enjoyable because your hands and neck aren’t hurting.  More speed, less aches and pains.

Do you want have up to 10% more power in one day?

I’ve had customers gain this much of an increase in sustained power just by having there bike adjusted to match their bio-mechanical structure. Even riders who are fitted pretty well can see improvements that would take months of training to accomplish. And this is in just a hour of repositioning on your bike.

Each Speed Factory session works with your measurements, cycling history, flexibility and preferences to dial in your position for maximum performance while still being comfortable for the long haul.

A quality road bike is like a suit, it only looks good on you when it is tailor fit.  By getting the three contact points ( handlebars, pedals and saddle) in the right position you will find your self riding faster and longer with less soreness.  Add to this foot and knee alignment for optimal power output and injury prevention.

Getting your alignment and balance right on the bike will make riding faster and more comfortable.

Our list of fit factors includes:

• Saddle shape and angle
• Saddle height and fore-aft balance
• Handlebar shape and angle
• Choice of type of handlebar tape and padding
• Brake lever angle
• Cleat alignment and shimming with Bikefit cleat wedges
• Knee and foot alignment
• Leg length imbalances
• Pedal stroke mechanics
• Crank length
• Pedal stance width

We are currently offering Speed Factory Bike Fittings by appointment at our Cambridge location.  To book an appointment call 226-533-9090 or email us at cambridge@brauns.com

So you’ve got a bike. Now what? To fully enjoy riding you will need a few accessories to help you on your way. These are my top 10 pieces of gear that will your cycling life better.
Padded Cycling Shorts
If you ride more than just around the block you’ve probably had a sore butt or chafing at some point. Padded bike shorts go a long way in reducing back side discomfort. You can get them in the classic skin tight lycra or a baggy short with the padded short built in. The fabrics are a modern wicking material that helps pull sweat from the skin to protect the skin and be more comfortable. Either way they will give the bum some more padding, reduce chafing and help manage moisture.
Pump
A pump is one of those things that isn’t very exciting until you need it. Then it’s your best friend. I recommend both a floor pump for home use and a mini pump that you can carry on your bike in case of flats while riding. The floor pump take far fewer strokes to get a tire up to pressure making it less of a pain to inflate a tire. The mini pumps work but I only use it for on the ride repairs as they have you pumping like a mad man to get up to pressure. Far better than walking but not something I want to do every few days.
Repair Kit
Like the boy scout motto goes, “Always be prepared”. Get one of the little bags that strap under your saddle and fill it with a spare inner tube, patch kit, tire levers, fold out mini tool (allen keys, screw drivers and chain breaker) and mini pump. With this kit you can take care of most of the problems you will run into while out riding.
Chain Lube and Cleaning Supplies
A clean and lubricated chain is a happy chain. You will have better shifting and longer life to all your drive train parts if you clean and lube your chain regularly. If your lazy like me you can use Pro Link Gold chain lube which clean and lubricates in one step.
Gloves
Whether for comfort, protection or warmth, cycling gloves are a must have. You can do short rides without them but just like the bike shorts, having gloves reduces pressure and chafing.
Vest and Warmers
A wind vest, arm warmers and knee warmers take a summer cycling outfit and extends the temperature range down by 10 degrees. Of particular utility is the fact that on a cool summer morning your can start with these pieces on and as it warms up can remove and store them in your jersey pocket.
Sport Glasses
You need to protect your eyes from the sun, wind and debris. In expensive sport glasses are available with interchangable lenses so one set will cover all lighting conditions. All it takes is one bug in the eye to see how important eye protection is.
Hydration System
This can be bottles and cages on the bike or a Camelbak hydration backpack. If you are riding for more than 30 minutes or it’s hot out you need to rehydrate. You need 750-1000 ml of fluid per hour of riding and you need some way to carry it.
Light Set
Even if you are a road rider who only goes out during the day light, at some point you will get caught out as the sun goes down. A small LED front and rear light can be the difference between making it home safe and getting run over. Many of the small lights will go on your bike without adding much weight or wind drag but they are there when you need them. If you ride at night regularly a more powerful front light that throws enough light to light your way.
Bike Knowledge
All of the cool accessories in the world won’t do anything if you don’t know how to use them. Check with your local bike shop or community college as they often offer bike repair courses. If you develop the skills, things like flat tires, misaligned gears and mushy brakes will be simple fixes you can do yourself and keep riding.

Why Improve the Fit? – for a faster, more comfortable ride

You love riding your bike

 but after a while it feels more like a torture device than an extension of your body. It doesn’t have to happen. Getting your bike fit dialed in will go a long way to improving both comfort and performance. People think a fast position is low and uncomfortable but if your body won’t tolerate an aggressive then you won’t be as fast as you could be. While I can’t cover all the details of bike fit in a single article I will address some of the more common complaints and easy fixes for them.

Numb or Sore Hands
This may sound odd but the most common cause of numb hands is your seat being too far forward. Most bike saddles are on rails allowing you to move them backward and forward. Try sliding your saddle back 5-10 mm. In my own case, I have a long upper body so I need to be extra far back. I’ve got a seat post with extra offset and the saddle slid all the way back.

As well your handlebar may need to be raised or your stem swapped for length.

For every 2 mm you move your saddle back, lower your seat 1 mm as you are moving away from the pedals so it has to be compensated for. Make sure your saddle is level as well as a saddle tipped down will have you sliding forward on your hands.

Butt and Crotch
Most of your weight should be on your sit bones on the rear widest part of the saddle. If you feel like to much of the pressure is on the crotch, then lower your seat 3 mm. Test it out and keep lower a little at a time until you are supported on the sit bones with minimal pressure on the crotch or perineum area.

Sometimes with crotch and butt pain it’s just that you have the wrong saddle. If you develop sore spots in the inside of your sitbones then the saddle could be the culprit. If your saddle feels like you are sitting between the sitbones rather than on them consider a saddle that is slightly wider at the back.

Feet
If you ride in sneakers then the best thing you can do for your feet is get the biggest platform pedals you can find as your shoes don’t support your feet so the pedal has to. BMX or downhill pedals are a great way to go.

When you are running cycling shoes and clipless pedals there are a number of ways to improve foot comfort. If you are experiencing foot numbness or a hot spot in the forefoot then my first adjustment would be how you tighten your shoes when you put them on.

Start at the top, nearest your shin and work towards the toe. When you start at the toe you tend to over tighten across the ball of your foot leading to numbness.

The next step is to move your cleats back further towards the heel. Start with 5 mm and test to see if that relieves the pressure. Keep moving it back if the problem is getting better but not gone. When you move your cleats back you will have to move your seat down half the distance you moved your cleats.

If the pain is in the arch or outside of the foot then you may need to replace the stock insoles with one with more arch support. There are a few brands of heat mold-able insoles that have a firmer arch support.

Knees
Knee cap / Front of the knee
This is usually a sign your seat is too low or you are doing to much hill climbing in a big gear. Raise your seat 3 mm at a time until the pressure on your knees has eased. And while not a fitting issue, focus on spinning lighter gears, even uphill. It takes work but you will become a more efficient cyclist once your adapt your body to a higher cadence. If you have persistent pain or discomfort than you may have developed some inflammation. Going to see your doctor is a good idea in this case. Go light on the riding for a couple of weeks spinning easy gears to give the joint a chance to heal.

Back of the Knee
This is less common but is usually a sign that your seat is too high. Pain behind the knee is often accompanied by low back (along the belt line) pain as the hips will tend to rock when your seat is too high.

Sides of the Knee
If you get pain in the outside of the knee from riding it’s a sign your feet are set too narrow. This is a problem with some of the modern pedals from Look and Shimano as the stance width is narrower than older models. Most cleats will allow some side to side adjustment so you will want to move them in towards the inside of the foot which will move your feet wider. Another way to get a wider stance is to put a washer on the pedal axle between the pedal and the crankarm.

The other thing that can cause pain in the side of the knee is cleat angle. It’s most common to need the heels in a bit but that doesn’t apply to everyone. Try adjusting the angle a little and see how it feels. If it’s worse go in the other direction until the pressure eases.

Lower Back and Hips
This can be caused by a number of factors including seat to far forward, bar too low, reach to the bar too long or seat too high. Follow the step outline above and see if they help with the lower back. Other factors include tight hamstrings and pushing too hard of a gear.

Without a professional fit, it can take a bit of trial and error to correct fit problems but try the tips I’ve outlined above and you should start to see some improvement.

Injuries suck.

No really, being a cyclist is awesome until you get injured well, I guess the same would hold true for any sport.  But the down time is the killer!

Around the beginning of June I tore some pretty key ligaments in my wrist while on a pretty wicked (up until the time of injury) mountain bike ride.  Doc said no more mountain biking for awhile but he DIDN’T say I couldn’t ride my road bike .  I’m lucky enough to own a few bikes, my Argon 18 Radon being one of them.  So my season thus far has been a lot more as a roadie than anything else.  I have also had to keep the typing to a minimum and wear a robo cop/spiderman hybrid looking brace thus not a ton going on in my blog world.

Good news:  I seem to be back in great health, ventured down to Woodstock last weekend to hit some trails and all systems seemed go.

So during the many Km’s i racked up so far this summer during my road rides, one thing became inherently clear to me.  Referencing my previous post regarding bike comfort while riding road, specifically picking up a decent pair of gloves, one thing occcured to me that i hadn’t mentioned in previous posts.

As much as gloves will certainly add to ride comfort, let’s not forget bar wrap.

For those new riders that may not be aware, bar wrap or bar tape is the material (usually cork or synthetic base) that your curved handler bar is wrapped in for both grip and comfort.

For a lot of us, replacing your bar tape is usually one of the last things you would think of on a bike unless it is visably worn through or ripped or, coming unwound.  However replacing your bar wrap from older stuff or the stock tape that came on a new bike can make a huge comfort difference.

Aside from providing a grip area on your bars, your bar wrap will actually aid in dampening the vibration that works it’s way through the bike and into your hands.  vibration in the bike happens on any bike, be it carbon or aluminum, the better materials of course like carbon and titanium drastically reduce and dampen vibration but it is still present on our sometimes not so great Ontario roads.

Of course with a wrist injury, this became very important to me.  Well not giving up cycling totally, i wanted to recover as quickly as possible so that i could once again enjoy the dirt side of the sport.  I decided to upgrade my bar wrap from the rather lackluster stuff that came with the bike.

Most basic bar wraps consist of a cork or minimalist synthetic base but, as an upgrade you can get gel wrap or even add thin gel pads underneath your wrap.  Now i know the weight weenies out there will be complaining that this does add a little bit of weight to the bike, which is true but, this upgrade would not be for the cyclist that races but rather for the “century” rider, those of us that want to just get on the bike and eat some Km’s.

I decided to try the Fizik Bar Gel Kit which is a kit consisting of a softer almost leather feel tape and some smaller gel inserts that can be custom cut and placed under the wrap.  Their was no noticeable thickness difference of the wrap with the gel inserts and comfort was dramatically increased,  although i have no medical evidence that this increased my recovery time from injury, it certainlywas a lot better on the wrist from the previous stock wrap – this i am sure of.

So if you have some good gloves but are still maybe wondering what else you can try ? maybe it’s time to look at this simple low cost upgrade to your bike – could be the difference between happy ride or…not so much

P

A very common question I get asked at the shop is “What can I do to alleviate wrist pain or numb hands when riding?”  Although the answer is sometimes not simple and could be a host of issues with both bike set up, type of rider and size of bike, something that will never hinder your comfort is a good set of cycling gloves.

Our friends at Louis Garneau have always had a solid glove line up in addition to their performance apparel and gear and this year they have a new model called the Vent Flex.

Before we get started  talking about how awesome the addition of the L/G Vent Flex can be to your ride, let’s briefly discuss the differences between various types of gloves themselves so we’re all on the same page.  Generally you have two types:  half finger and full finger.  Usually a full finger gloved is used by off road cyclists as it gives a more aggressive grip and offers further hand and knuckle protection against tree branches and other obstacles.  Full finger gloves usually have less padding in the palm area because off road cyclists demand a solid grip and ride with hands that are constantly moving and adjusting the weight of the body based on terrain.

Half finger gloves typically suit the more recreational cyclist or those that enjoy road riding  as these cyclists tend to adopt a more static hand posture for  longer periods of time thus increased padding in the palm with a light and breathable back.

When temperatures change, some of the qualities of both gloves can be transferable i.e some off road cyclists prefer half finger gloves in really hot temperatures and road riders will source long finger gloves when riding early or late in the season etc.  Essentially, there aren’t any hard and fast rules for gloves in a general sense. Use what is comfortable and  works for you.

Now with the background complete on to the product!

The L/G Vent Flex, available in men’s or women’s, came to mind when discussing gloves because they have really made a big comfort difference to my ride this season.  My former gloves were a bit worn out and the padding was compressed and worn…great excuse for an upgrade!

Referring to my previous statements, L/G Vent Flex would be classified as mostly a road riding glove.  It’s construction and padding placement leans more towards the rider that is going to be using a drop handlebar style.  That is what they are designed for.  They will, of course, work for other cyclists.

The Vent Flex is a very light weight glove that features 5 mm thick gel foam palm padding and L/G’s “air zone” construction,  meaning the glove is very breathable.  The upper thumb is made of a really nice microfiber cloth for wicking away sweat, bug guts and all that nice stuff from the face.

One clever feature that I like is the rubberized pull tabs on the fingers.  These are designed so that it is a lot easier to get the glove off, rather than pulling them inside out all the time.  The material that the gloves are made of is fully washable too but they should be air dried rather than piling them in a dryer.

So if you’re a roadie and you are  tired of numb hands or you’re a cyclist that just wants a better, super comfortable glove then stop by one of our locations and try a pair of Louis Garneau Vent Flex glove.  Your hands will thank you!

Explaining the mystery of saddle (seat) selection

Quite simply – If your bike seat hurts, it’s either not yet set up properly or it may be the wrong saddle for you!  If it hurts to ride, you will not ride as much as you otherwise would and you will not enjoy it.  So saddle comfort is really important.

There are a number of details a cyclist needs to consider when selecting their bicycle seat.  Here are the main ones:

1. There are gender specific shapes and widths of seats
2. What is the seat is made out of 
3. What padding the seat supports you with
4.  The positioning of the various padding systems internally within the saddle structure

Then once you have selected the correct seat you need to mount it to your bike in a way that you will benefit most from.  In other words, you need to be comfortable and this is done by having the seat correctly positioned on your bicycle.

1. The (up and down) angle of the seat
2. The fore vs aft position of the seat as it compares to the seat post & pedals
3. Is the seat straight relative to the bicycle frame

This may seem like a lot of things to consider, but if you aren’t comfortable when you sit on your bike seat and start to ride, almost nothing else will matters.

SR’s LookIn saddles are the cyclist’s answer to the greatest level of Gel Comfort possible in a bicycle seat. 

These saddles feature RoyalGel.  RoyalGel has got to be the most comfortable gel ever manufactured.  They put larger concentrations of RoyalGel in the key pressure points where you need it most. 

If that wasn’t enough, the RoyalGel has three way movement.  It will stretch horizontally, vertically and diagonally in three directions.  This reduces pressure points for the rider in the sit bones and soft tissue areas by 80%. 

Now that’s comfort! 

Over both long and short rides Lookin Saddles produce much better comfort than any other saddle in their category. 

One of the most important features of the Lookin design is the cyclists Riding Position.  How you are positioned on the bike seat has a major effect on how the sit bones and soft tissues contact the saddle.  This is what SR focused on with the various saddle designs.  Selle Royal has defined  4 riding positions to better address the rider to saddle relationship.  Sport, Athletic, Moderate and Relaxed.

The Sport Rider (similar to the below picture) usually sits on the seat with a 0 to 15 degree angle of their spine to the seat.  This causes about 40% of their body weight to be placed onto the front of the saddle.  So SR places increase RoyalGel at the front with a modified shape/profile of the actual saddle to maximize comfort.   This style of seat is quite narrow.

The Athletic Rider usually sits on the seat with a 15 to 30 degree angle of their spine to the seat.  The more upright position than the Sport Rider moves the body weight and sit bones farther back.  This saddle has the RoyalGel concentrated further back in the little wider seat.

The Moderate Rider usually sits on the seat with a 30 to 60 degree angle of their spine to the seat.  This rider’s weight and sit bones are further back again than the Athletic Rider, causing the RoyalGel to again be concentrated further back the saddle.  This style of seat is wider again than the Athletic type.

The Relaxed Rider usually is sitting almost straight up at a 90 degree angle.  Sitting on the saddle in this position places 60% plus of the riders weight directly over the back of the saddle.  This version of the seat is widest and has most of the RoyalGel concentrated at the back.

Once you have figured out the most appropriate Rider Position for your riding style you need to select either a Men’s or Ladies style of seat.  Yes there really is a difference and it is important because men and women are really anotomically quite different, especially in the sit areas of our bodies.

Men’s sit bones are generally between 100 and 136mm wide.  Women’s sit bones average in the range of 112 to 148mm.  For this reason SR generally makes their men’s saddles narrower than women’s. 

Its more than just skeletal structure.  In the sit region of the body, a  man’s arteries and nerves average a distance apart of 30 – 35mm.  A ladies arteries and nerves converge into a much narrower and shorter area.  How a cyclist’s soft tissue is impacted in this region will greatly affect that cyclist’s comfort vs pain levels.  Selle Royal has designed anatomical saddles for men that feature a wide pressure relief area on the saddle to accommodate a man’s structure and a narrower more “V” shaped pressure relief area for women.

Sounds a bit complicated.  No worries – We can keep it simple – if you’re a guy get the man’s version.  If you are a lady – get the women’s style.  Don’t worry why – just know that the seat gurus at Selle Royal have studied this a lot and know what they are doing.

So to recap - Pick your riding style, then select the correct gender of seat.  Jump on and ride and gain an amazing riding experience customized to you and how you ride. 

Comfort is a matter of choice!