I’m pretty stoked because I’m headed out for a weeks holidays in Algonquin Provincial Park! You all know what this means… lots of relaxing, and lots of riding in one of Ontario’s hidden treasures ( The Minessing Bike Trail). This trail offers loops of varying length and difficulty to accommodate every riders skill level. I will post a review of the trails upon my return in terms of condition and additions this season, as well as peak riding times, and gathers at the trails. Stay tuned for updates, and hopefully some personal pictures!

This posts tech tip is for the dirt lovers: those of us who dream of high end suspension forks, easily modulating disc brakes and crisp shifting XTR (and X-O) rear derailleurs. In this post, I intend to familiarize you with varying styles of disc brakes, as well as maintenance and setup to make the “foreign items” a little more familiar.

Pictured below are a mechanical Disc Brake and a Hydraulic Disc Brake respectively: both offering their own pros and cons. Each brake is unique, however I will not discuss their benefits in each application on this post. Instead I want to focus on how to make them perform to their potential… no matter the model.

-The avid BB7 is one of the most common mechanical disc brakes. It offers the highest rate of adjustability and easiest modulation while riding. It has even been rated to surpass the abilities of some hydraulic disc brakes.

The Shimano hydraulic disc brake line up offers components to suit all price ranges and riding styles. They are available in both centre lock (threaded mounting) and six bolt rotor styles.

No matter what style of brake you run, it will consist of four basic parts… first the caliper (the actual braking component of the set up which houses the pads and causes their actuation). Second, the line or means of actuation (either a cable run inside housing or hydraulic mineral oil or dot fluid compressed inside a pressurized, sealed line). Third, the rotor which fixes to the wheel in either a centre lock or bolting fashion. Finally, the lever, (consisting of either a cable mounting lever which pulls the cable through the housing, or a hydraulic lever) which compresses the fluid in the line, and actuates the brakes.

Setting up Mechanical Disc Brakes!

-This is easy to do, and can be done using simply a 5mm allen key.
-First, release the cable tension from the caliper, and loosen the caliper fixing bolts from their mount.
-Next, dial out the non-moving pad and recess it from the rotor as far as possible.
-Then place a piece of white paper on the opposite side of the caliper from your viewing so you can see where the rotor lies between the pads.
-Next, centre the rotor between the pads (favoring on being closer to the moving pad side) and tighten the caliper fixing bolts accordingly.
-Then, dial in the non moving pad, so it is as close to the rotor as possible without rubbing
-Finally, tension the cable, first by tightening at the caliper, then by tightening using the barrel adjuster to move the activating pad as close to the rotor as possible.

-Then test your newly adjusted brakes to ensure their exceptional stopping power.

Setting up Hydraulic Disc Brakes

-Similarly, this is easy to do, and can be done using a 5mm allen key.
-First, release both caliper fixing bolts from their mounts so that the caliper is free floating.
-Second, and this can be your final step (if you are lucky!) pull the brake lever, to activate the pistons, and tighten the brake caliper in this position.

 -Provided that the pistons activated evenly, the caliper should now be centred on the rotor… however, if this is not the case, release the caliper fixing bolts once again.
-Then, place a piece of white paper opposite the caliper from you so you can observe the rotor passing between the caliper.
-Next, position the caliper to allow the rotor to pass through without rubbing, and then tension the caliper fixing bolts to hold the caliper in this position and allow it to actuate perfectly without rubbing on the rotor unintentionally.

No matter what style of brakes you use, whenever you make an adjustment: be sure to check your work in a safe environment before needing the braking apparatus for an emergency!
Hope everyone had a good long weekend, and can’t wait to fill you guys in on my vacation!

Until next time, keep both hands ready on the brakes…
but don’t send yourself over the bars!

Bryan

Now I know that I am supposed to be discussing bike service techniques, and advice on how to get the most out of your bike components. However there are all these topics that I feel are crucial in order for everyone to enjoy riding even more! Once I knock the main ones off the list, I will discuss more service topics, and filter in my professional experience.

Today’s post is all about how to transport your bike!! Now… no matter what type of bike you have, or what vehicle your driving, there is a right and wrong way to transport your ride and I’m here to help you find the best way to move yours.

As always, we will begin with the basics and go from there…

You can either transport your bike inside your vehicle or on the outside. The preferred method is on the outside of the vehicle, as it helps to keep mud and water from damaging the interior of your vehicle, and it helps to keep from damaging the bicycles components.

However, if you must transport your bicycle inside the vehicle, do so with the drivetrain components facing upwards, and be sure to prepare the vehicles interior (with a blanket, or rug) to protect it.

The preferred way to transport your rig is on the outside using one of various styles of bicycle auto racks. In this category, there are three different styles: first, trunk mount racks, second, hitch mounted racks and finally roof mounted bicycle racks. All of which have benefits, and are preferrable for different styles.

Trunk Mounted racks, such as the Saris Bones 3 Rack (seen above) are an excellent option for people who occasionally transport recreational style bicycles, on multiple vehicles. The versatility of a trunk mounted rack is that it allows for use on multiple vehicles, and can be adjusted to fit vehicles of almost every style. Trunk mounted racks are capable of carrying anywhere from 1 to 4 bikes that are able to be mounted by the frame.
That is where trunk mounted racks are limited, as they require the frame to be hung onto the rack for transport, and will not accommodate small frame sizes, step through frames, downhill frames, or freeride bikes. Further, it is important to remember that the weight of the bicycles is being carried by the trunk lid, and transporting too many heavy bicycles in this manner can cause damage to the vehicle.

The next possibility for transport is to use a hitch mounted rack. These types of racks mount into the receiver on the vehicle and can carry bikes in either a hanging or platform fashion. The latter of which being the preferred, as it allows almost all styles of bicycles to be transported. A rack such as the Thule T2platform rack is compatible with both 1 1/4″ and 2″ receivers, and can transport from 2 to 4 bikes on a platform. The rack does not make contact with the frame, and secures the bikes using the wheels. This allows it to transport bikes with wheel sizes from 20-29″and any style of frame (from road to downhill). The platform style rack is also lockable, both the rack to the hitch, and the bikes to the rack, which allows you to ensure that your bikes are secure. There are few limitations to these racks, aside from the requirement of having a hitch.

The final style of rack which is good for securely transporting your rig is roof mounted racks. In this case, load bars are attached to the vehicles factory roof rack, or an aftermarket Thule fit kit is added to the vehicle to make almost any vehicle compatible with a roof style bike rack. Bikes mounted onto Thule load bars can be done so in either a fork mounted or upright position. The roof rack method of transport offers a variety of options, and many different units can be used together in an effort to transport a variety of bikes at one time. Fork mounted racks do not make contact with the bicycles frame, and mount to the fork and rear wheel. These racks are excellent as they do not contact the frame, but are not compatible with 20mm axles (found on downhill, dirt jumping, and freeride bikes). Upright racks can either attach to the frame, or can hold the bike via the wheels (an example is the Thule Sidearm Rack).

It is important to consider all factors when determining which style of rack is best for you. A key consideration is if you tow a trailer when transporting bikes (as this directs you towards a roof transport style rack) or if you constantly need to access the hatch of your vehicle…

Any of our sales associates at Braun’s Kitchener or Guelph locations can help to find the perfect rack for all your transport needs. Feel free to drop by the store, and we can further explain all the options to you!

Take care, and until next time, be sure to double check the straps!

Bryan

I guess I should tell you a little about myself, before I jump right into the bike specifics. I am currently a student, studying in Health Sciences at the University of Waterloo. I work at the shop part time during school terms, and full time during the summer months. Biking has been a passion of mine since a young age, and I have met many friends and developed many relationships through hitting the trails, or tagging along on a ride.

 During my spare time, I enjoy spending time outdoors, everything from camping and canoeing to hiking and riding. But on those lousy rainy days, there is nothing better than relaxing with a good book. Although riding everything from road to downhill, my preference still lies with cross country as it presents the most trails in this area, and still gets me out in the woods.

We all ride in the service department at Braun’s and when possible we all try and ride together. Sunday’s tend to work best for everyone because that is the only day the shop is closed, and having all day allows us to go for longer rides and push ourselves further. Riding with other people is beneficial no matter what skill level you are. Having other people to encourage you or talk to while on a ride can make it both more enjoyable, and more beneficial.

Here in central southwestern Ontario, Hydrocut and Puslinch Lake are my two favourite local trails, with Puslinch marginally edging out Hydrocut due to its high speed factor and gorgeous scenery. However there are many other scattered around the province, (particularly the northern region) which offer excellent rides and a variety of riding conditions.

It’s about time for me to prep the gear and hit the trails, I’m thinking hydrocut tonight… maybe see if I can better my speed through a few of the more technical sections on the trails.

Until next time, hope to see you out there, and keep a finger on the brakes: you never know what will happen!

It’s really about history and people. I thought about all the great people I’ve met over the years , how happy they are with the bikes we have helped them find, and how many of them have become quite good friends. I think of the great relationships that have resulted from people meeting here, I think at last count there were 6 marriages that resulted from in store meetings. I’ve really lost count of how many “first bikes” we have provided to little one’s in this area. We have even helped find a “last bike” for burial with a  very dedicated cyclist who passed on. Pretty special moments.  These great things happen every single day in this 85 year old business. We here on the “inside” watch them happen, we help them take place, and it does so often, we often forget how special they really are. We take it for granted sometimes, and we shouldn’t. These things are rare, very rare. We are just very fortunate to come to a place every day, that has so much rich history, and customers that span generations.

I helped a great woman just this past Monday who told me that her Grandfather had bought her very first bicycle from Braun’s in Kitchener when she was 5yrs old. She was now 70, and purchasing a cute little pink 12″ bike for her Granddaughter. I almost cried! Since she was 5 years old, 65 years ago, every single bike for her 4 children, and their extended family, had come from Braun’s. It was a $120 purchase and it made my year. 

So what’s next. More of the same gratifying experiences I hope. I can’t imagine they won’t continue, and I’ll cherish every single moment. History in business can be a double edged sword. It can hold a company back by being lost in the past, but it can also be a valuable asset if appreciated, cultured, and honored at every opportunity. I have to say that the Braun family is doing a fine job of respecting their storied past, all the while planning for and keeping a keen eye on the future.

There are big things ahead for us…. And I for one can’t wait to be a part of the history we are going to make. Won’t you join us?

Until next time…..

-Glenn

Commuting in the winter is a bike destroying, part wearing, nasty for all parts mess. Hate to burst your bubble, but it’s true. There is nothing good about road salt for the cyclist or the bike. It gets in everything, destroy’s parts prematurely, ruins clothing, and tastes awful.

So what can you do to make it more bearable? Walk?….Drive?….Take the bus?….none of those options are open to the winter commuter. So here is my quick checklist for the winter hearty bicycle commuter.

Ride a piece of crap junk, or pay the price. If you ride your good bike, I guarantee you will be buying a new drivetrain in the spring…maybe more. Disc brakes, electronics, most fabrics and winter do not play well in the same sandbox.