Safety Check

Basic Bicycle Safety Checklist:

Bolts/Quick release levers

Check that bolts and/or quick release levers on the seat, seat post, handlebar stem and axles are tight.

Headset

Check that it turns freely and doesn’t rattle.

Brakes

Check that the nuts on the brakes are tight. Brake pads should not touch the rims unless you are squeezing the brakes. Brake levers should stop at least 2.5 centimetres from the handlebars when the brakes are fully applied.

Axles

Check bearings for looseness by shaking the wheel side to side. Make sure quick release levers are clamped tight.

Shift Levers

Derailleur levers should move easily only when shifting. A screw or butterfly nut or similar device lets you adjust the movement of some types of shifter levers.

Derailleur Movement

On derailleur bikes, try shifting through all your gears and make sure your derailleur does not throw the chain off the sprockets.

Tires

Inflate to the recommended tire pressure as shown on the tire.

Spokes

Check for and replace loose, bent or broken spokes.

Wheels

Make sure wheels are centred in the forks and not touching the brake blocks. Check the rim for side-to-side wobbles and up and down hops by watching the wheel spin past the brakes or frame. More than half a centimetre of wobble is cause for concern.

Coaster Brakes

Check that the bolt holding the brake arm to the frame clip is tight.

Helmet

             Make sure that your helmet meets safety standards (e.g. Snell, CSA, ANSI,   ASTM, BSI, SAA, CPSC) and has not been damaged in a collision.

Keep your bike secure

Always carry a quality bicycle lock when riding and always lock your bike and quick release items like your wheels and seat to something solid.

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Over the next number of blogs we will cover Safety Equipment (Sizing, Safety Check, Helmets, Visibility), Handling Skills, Riding in Traffic (Where, Intersections, Signs and traffic signals, Dealing with trucks and buses), Obstacles and Road surfaces, Cycling and the Law and Electric Bicycles.  Stay tuned for the next few weeks as we cover some important information to keep YOU safe while cycling!

Watch for” CYCLING SKILLS (Safe Cycling)  Part 3 – Safety Equipment -Helmets” in the Blog on Monday, August 2nd.

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The above information is taken from the Government of Ontario website and addresses “Ontario’s Guide to Safe Cycling”.  For more information please see http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/pubs/cycling-guide/index.shtml .

Okay… so maybe the title for this blog was a little bit misleading! But the info I have for you could be life saving if you find yourself stuck on the trail with a flat tire!

When it comes to getting a flat, nobody likes having to deal with it on the ride… in fact I know a few guys in the shop hmm hmm… who have even been so lazy as to call family members to pick them up so they didn’t have to change the flat on their ride. For the rest of us… the diehards… there are a few items you can pack, and a few pieces of advice you can follow to get you back up and running in no time!

As we discussed in my earlier blogs, you will want to pack: tire levers, a spare tube, a patch kit and a pump along with the rest of your gear.

The steps for this procedure are fairly simple:

1.) As discussed in prior posts, find an upright place to hang your bicycle by the seat in order to work on it. This will make the going easier.

2.) Release the brake mechanism (if applicable, a mechanic in the shop can advise you on how to do this for your bike) and remove the wheel (yeah, I guess the flat one would make sense…) from your bike.

3.) Take a pair of tire levers, and insert them between the tire and the rim on one side directly opposite the valve stem.

4.) Clip the first tire lever to the spoke as a starting point, then, using the second lever; pry the bead of the tire off the rim, and work the rest of the bead off of one side.

5.) Remove the tube from inside the tire (valve first) and inflate it slightly to determine the cause of the puncture to the tube. If the flat resulted from an internal puncture (ie a snakebite) there is little need to check the tire for foreign objects. However, if the flat has been cause by an external puncture, ensure that you check the area inside the tire that corresponds to where the tube was punctured. (Note: it never hurts to check the tire anyways, better safe than sorry!)

6.) Once the tire is clear, you next need to inflate the new tube slightly to give it shape (this will make installation easier.)

7.) Insert the new tube, starting at the valve stem, and slowing inserting the tube around the tire. (it is crucial at this step to ensure the tube is not twisted, as this will cause the tube to fail.)

8.) Once the tube is installed, you will then want to re-mount the bead of the tire to the rim. This is done using both hands, and putting the tire under the hook of the rim. Start at the valve, and seat the tire in this region first, then work your way around the tire using both hands in opposite directions (as to not lose your starting point.)

9. Once you have re-installed the tire onto the rim, slowly inflate the tube (checking that the tire is properly seating on the rim all the way around.) Inflate the tire to your preferred pressure, then once again check the bead of the tire to ensure it has seated evenly around the rim.  (If you are not happy with the way it looks, deflate, and re-inflate the tire checking the bead constantly and filling slowly.)

10.) Re-install the tire on the bike, and re-connect any brake mechanisms that were detached for removal.

11.) Pack your gear back up, hop on your bike… and head out!

Didn’t mean to mislead you guys with the title… but I’m sure you’re all glad you read this one!

Until next time,
Check your pressure regularly!

Bryan

It has been a busy week at the shop and I have been helping my parents redo their deck, which, with our weather taking a turn for the better leaves me wishing I were out on the trails more. I figured I would offer some advice on how to get your bike back up and running if you happen to have chain problems on the trail.

To begin… as unfortunate as it is… everyone will break or damage a chain at some point in time.  In the case of mountain riding, too much tension on a climb, or catching a log while in the big ring can damage the chain and result in breakage or a stiff link. Not to worry, as both concerns can be resolved.  For the roadie type… an over exerted chain resulting from a missed shift or shifting error can cause similar problems.

-Seen above is an example of a stiff link that can be found in a chain (this will cause shifting and riding difficulties).

Follow these steps and your problems will be solved.

1.) To this problem there is one simple solution… get your rig back up and running at the side of the road without losing too much time off your ride.

2.) In order to resolve this problem you will need the following tools:

-A decent chain tool
-A quick link connecter
-Some patience (the latter of the three being the most important!)

3.) When you have a chain concern, your best option (be it road or mountain) is to pause your ride and stop where you can suspend your bike in an upright position:
-using the surroundings available, i.e. a tree, bench, guardrail, etc.
(This allows work to be more easily performed on the bicycle as it is upright and will function similar as to when you are riding it! (try not to work on your bike upside down.)

4.) Next, using your Park CT-3 (seen above) or similar tool, remove the stiff link, or fabricate two female ends to prep the installation of a quick link. This will allow the fastest, no issue install.
It is easiest to make these adjustments when the chain is not highly tensioned, so shifting the chain into the smallest rings (front and rear) will make it easier to repair the bike.

-When fixing a stiff or broken link it is important to remove the damaged portion (even if it makes the chain too short). This will help to ensure tensile strength in the chain.

5.) Check your regular riding  gears to ensure it will not cause any shifting problems and that you have removed any other stiff links.

*Note* For fixing broken chains: you are best to use a powerlink when your chain is new, however, pushing the pin on a link is better when your chain is aged. On those weekend trips up to the trails it never hurts to bring an extra chain along… just in case you have one of those days!

Until next time, keep your chain stressed, but not your nerves!

Bryan!

It has been a long and rainy week, and I have not been able to enjoy as many rides as I normally do. This has allowed me to further appreciate my morning commutes into the shop and made me analyze the many different styles of bikes available and the different applications they are designed for.

In this post, I hope to identify and distinguish between the different bikes that are available and the applications and riding styles for which they are designed. This can be significant when looking at purchasing a bike or when determining if the bike you have is the correct one for you.

There are 4-6 different styles of bikes available depending on how you divide up the styles.  However, I will break them down into the 6 full categories to give you the best comparison between them.

First, there are what are known as Road bikes (see above): these bikes typically have 700C or 650C wheels and are designed with an attack geometry to favour speed, over comfort or functionality. These bikes are fully rigid and can be made of materials from Steel to Carbon Fibre. They are available in all component levels and can extend from recreational to race or competitive models. Road bikes are designed strictly for road riding as their narrow tires and low gearing range promote high levels of speed on back country roads or the track.

Second, there are devoted Mountain bikes (seen above): these bikes typically consist of wheel sizes from 26″ to 29″ and are designed for durability and speed for use off roads on technical trail sections. These bikes are available in rigid models, front suspension models and full suspension models, depending on your preference. Further, these bikes are available in all component levels and can extend from recreational or entry level models, to racing or endurance models. Mountain bikes are best for trail riding, as they have  knobby tires and a high gearing range to make clearing all obstacles a possibility.

The third style of bicycle is known as Hybrid bikes (seen above): these bikes typically consist of a 700c wheel size, but are equipped with wider tires, and front suspension (to the riders preference) to make them more practical in multiple riding conditions. These bikes are very common for commuting as they are designed with gearing ratios for in city riding and can be equipped with internal gearing components to make them year round reliable transportation rigs.

The fourth style of bicycle is what`s known as a Cross Bike (seen above):  these bikes are designed with 700c wheels and road components, with gearing ratios to support on road riding  and speed. Similar to road bikes they are fully rigid. However, these bikes are considered cross bikes as a result of their ability to cross over into the mountain trails because of their design with re-inforced wheels and knobby tires which provide grip and control on single track trails. These bikes still have drop bars in a road bike fashion, yet they are equipped with mountain levers to offer better control in multiple riding conditions.

The fifth style of bicycle available is what is known as Comfort Bikes (seen above): these bikes are designed typically with 26` wheels and large volume tires to make the ride as smooth as possible. These bikes are typically designed with front suspension and suspension seat posts to make the ride as smooth and enjoyable as possible for the user. These styles of bikes are currently designed for style as well as function with step-through frames for women, and wooden racks and fenders for style.

The sixth style and final style of bicycle is actually a tricycle! These bikes are known as Adult Trikes (seen above): they are designed with wheel sizes from 20-26″ and are built with two rear wheels and a single front wheel to increase stability. These bikes are designed for light on road use, typically by the elderly or those who have trouble with balance or stability. These bikes have a relaxed riding position and can accommodate all styles of riders to make them multi-functional.

Now that I have discussed the Main styles of bicycles, it is your job to decipher which one best suits your riding style and how you intend to use the bicycle. If you are like myself, one bike will not fit all applications and you will end up with a garage full and have a different one for each day of the week, just like the clothes in your closet.

If you did not see a style of bicycle above that suits your needs, you may fit into a specific category that I did not discuss in this post. These styles of bikes are typically more unique and although widely used… are not as highly demanded as the others. If you have any questions about the styles of bikes I discussed, or what else is available from our retail stores, just ask me in a comment or contact either of our stores!

As always… I hope to see you out there and remember to be careful when riding!

Bryan

Now I know that I am supposed to be discussing bike service techniques, and advice on how to get the most out of your bike components. However there are all these topics that I feel are crucial in order for everyone to enjoy riding even more! Once I knock the main ones off the list, I will discuss more service topics, and filter in my professional experience.

Today’s post is all about how to transport your bike!! Now… no matter what type of bike you have, or what vehicle your driving, there is a right and wrong way to transport your ride and I’m here to help you find the best way to move yours.

As always, we will begin with the basics and go from there…

You can either transport your bike inside your vehicle or on the outside. The preferred method is on the outside of the vehicle, as it helps to keep mud and water from damaging the interior of your vehicle, and it helps to keep from damaging the bicycles components.

However, if you must transport your bicycle inside the vehicle, do so with the drivetrain components facing upwards, and be sure to prepare the vehicles interior (with a blanket, or rug) to protect it.

The preferred way to transport your rig is on the outside using one of various styles of bicycle auto racks. In this category, there are three different styles: first, trunk mount racks, second, hitch mounted racks and finally roof mounted bicycle racks. All of which have benefits, and are preferrable for different styles.

Trunk Mounted racks, such as the Saris Bones 3 Rack (seen above) are an excellent option for people who occasionally transport recreational style bicycles, on multiple vehicles. The versatility of a trunk mounted rack is that it allows for use on multiple vehicles, and can be adjusted to fit vehicles of almost every style. Trunk mounted racks are capable of carrying anywhere from 1 to 4 bikes that are able to be mounted by the frame.
That is where trunk mounted racks are limited, as they require the frame to be hung onto the rack for transport, and will not accommodate small frame sizes, step through frames, downhill frames, or freeride bikes. Further, it is important to remember that the weight of the bicycles is being carried by the trunk lid, and transporting too many heavy bicycles in this manner can cause damage to the vehicle.

The next possibility for transport is to use a hitch mounted rack. These types of racks mount into the receiver on the vehicle and can carry bikes in either a hanging or platform fashion. The latter of which being the preferred, as it allows almost all styles of bicycles to be transported. A rack such as the Thule T2platform rack is compatible with both 1 1/4″ and 2″ receivers, and can transport from 2 to 4 bikes on a platform. The rack does not make contact with the frame, and secures the bikes using the wheels. This allows it to transport bikes with wheel sizes from 20-29″and any style of frame (from road to downhill). The platform style rack is also lockable, both the rack to the hitch, and the bikes to the rack, which allows you to ensure that your bikes are secure. There are few limitations to these racks, aside from the requirement of having a hitch.

The final style of rack which is good for securely transporting your rig is roof mounted racks. In this case, load bars are attached to the vehicles factory roof rack, or an aftermarket Thule fit kit is added to the vehicle to make almost any vehicle compatible with a roof style bike rack. Bikes mounted onto Thule load bars can be done so in either a fork mounted or upright position. The roof rack method of transport offers a variety of options, and many different units can be used together in an effort to transport a variety of bikes at one time. Fork mounted racks do not make contact with the bicycles frame, and mount to the fork and rear wheel. These racks are excellent as they do not contact the frame, but are not compatible with 20mm axles (found on downhill, dirt jumping, and freeride bikes). Upright racks can either attach to the frame, or can hold the bike via the wheels (an example is the Thule Sidearm Rack).

It is important to consider all factors when determining which style of rack is best for you. A key consideration is if you tow a trailer when transporting bikes (as this directs you towards a roof transport style rack) or if you constantly need to access the hatch of your vehicle…

Any of our sales associates at Braun’s Kitchener or Guelph locations can help to find the perfect rack for all your transport needs. Feel free to drop by the store, and we can further explain all the options to you!

Take care, and until next time, be sure to double check the straps!

Bryan

As I was preparing my gear for a ride earlier this week, I began to think… what an awesome topic to touch on as there are so many scenarios to consider when preparing your gear!  Quite often people ride with either far too much gear, or far too little.  Both of which can greatly impact your safety and the enjoyment of your ride!

For this post I will discuss the necessary items for both road and trail rides and help to make sure you have all the essential items. I will break things down into two separate lists, as some of the gear overlaps, but many items differ depending on genre of riding.

Let’s begin with the basics, as these topics will apply to both road and mountain riding. You need a helmet, no questions asked… they are called accidents for a reason!  Depending on the length of your ride, you will want water accordingly. This can be carried in either a CAMELBAK, (more mountain) or in bottles mounted to the frame (more road). (It is important to note that when using camelbaks you only take as much water as you will need, it can be tempting to simply fill the bladder.) Second, you should consider nutrition.  Hammer Gels (make sure you check out Pats post on them!) or granola bars serve as sources of energy when you begin to slow down. Packing food should once again be based on the duration and intensity of your ride.

The gear list for trail riders is all based on the premise that things can and will go wrong.  While preparing for my last ride, I debated if I needed my chain tool (as it was quite warm and boy did I want to squeeze in that Gatorade bottle) but I was glad I fit that tool in!  On one of the last challenging climbs at Puslinch, I snapped my chain, and was glad I had my chain tool to get my rig up and running again. For reasons such as this, you want to ensure you have the right tools and spare parts to fix problems that may arise. My recommendation is a quality multi-tool, such as the Park Rescue Tool MTB-3C. Tools such as this and other multi-tools provide all the necessities you will need to make adjustments and repairs while on your ride.  If you do not have a multi tool, you will want to pack a 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm hex wrenches, a #2 philips screwdriver, a slot screwdriver, a chain tool, tire levers, a three way spoke wrench and 8, 9 and 10mm open wrenches. The final things to pack include a quick link, a spare tube (as the tire levers are no good without it), a high capacity pump, and a patch kit (just in case you have a really unlucky day!)  This list is crucial, as having the right tools can really get you out of a jam and all this can be carried in your CAMELBAK or in your seat bag… that one, is up to you.

For road riders, it is somewhat reassuring that there is less that can potentially go wrong, and therefore, the amount of gear you need to carry is smaller. The likeliness of needing a chain tool, or spoke wrenches is far smaller while riding on the road. The gear list can still include a multi tool, but a more simplistic one may serve more practical for you. Regardless, when heading out for a road ride, you will want to carry 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6mm hex wrenches, a Philips and flat head screw driver, tire levers, Park GP-2 Super Patch Kit and a compact pump.

Ensuring you have the right gear packed can make the difference between an enjoyable ride and a long walk back to the car.  A few questionable items include gloves (as these can be used to your preference) and your cell phone. Although I would not recommend texting and riding, being able to contact the appropriate services can  be very important in case you are stranded due to a blow out or a serious situation is to arise.  I made good use of mine on a road adventure last fall when I had to call a friend to rescue me from a violent thunderstorm about 10km north of Aurora.

Is there anything you take on your rides that you would like to recommend?  What about things you have found you don’t need?

As for me, it’s about time I get ready for my ride into the shop. Let’s hope it’s smooth sailing and a flat free morning!

Until next time… Keep your pack light, but take the gear you need!

Bryan

I guess I should tell you a little about myself, before I jump right into the bike specifics. I am currently a student, studying in Health Sciences at the University of Waterloo. I work at the shop part time during school terms, and full time during the summer months. Biking has been a passion of mine since a young age, and I have met many friends and developed many relationships through hitting the trails, or tagging along on a ride.

 During my spare time, I enjoy spending time outdoors, everything from camping and canoeing to hiking and riding. But on those lousy rainy days, there is nothing better than relaxing with a good book. Although riding everything from road to downhill, my preference still lies with cross country as it presents the most trails in this area, and still gets me out in the woods.

We all ride in the service department at Braun’s and when possible we all try and ride together. Sunday’s tend to work best for everyone because that is the only day the shop is closed, and having all day allows us to go for longer rides and push ourselves further. Riding with other people is beneficial no matter what skill level you are. Having other people to encourage you or talk to while on a ride can make it both more enjoyable, and more beneficial.

Here in central southwestern Ontario, Hydrocut and Puslinch Lake are my two favourite local trails, with Puslinch marginally edging out Hydrocut due to its high speed factor and gorgeous scenery. However there are many other scattered around the province, (particularly the northern region) which offer excellent rides and a variety of riding conditions.

It’s about time for me to prep the gear and hit the trails, I’m thinking hydrocut tonight… maybe see if I can better my speed through a few of the more technical sections on the trails.

Until next time, hope to see you out there, and keep a finger on the brakes: you never know what will happen!

There are two main components to our Lifetime Service Program.

• The New Bike Break-in Check
• Service Package (as described below)

Our Service Package Includes the following

1. Adjustment of front and rear braking systems
2. Adjustment of front and rear shifting systems
3. Adjustment of the headset bearings
4. Adjustment of the bottom bracket bearings
5. Tire Pressure check
6. External lubrication of the drive-train
7. Minor wheel truing (straightening of wheels on the bicycle)
8. Visual tire inspection

When you have purchased the OPTIONAL Lifetime Service for your new bicycle from Braun’s you may enjoy any of the above services in one of our service departments whenever you need to.  Just bring the bike in when you can leave it with us.  We’ll do the rest.

For the life of your bicycle.

Now what do you do if you made the mistake of picking up your new bicycle and not purchasing the optional Lifetime Service Program?  We allow you 30 days from the date of pickup of your new bicycle to make the decision to get the optional Lifetime Service Program.  You may either call or drop into one of our retail stores and we will get you signed up.  You will need to bring your copy of the bicycle invoice so that we can complete this for you quickly.  If you desire to do this over the phone, then we will need you to also give us your credit card information to process your purchase of this program.

Braun’s Lifetime Service Program is one of the many reasons that families have been purchasing bicycles from our family for many generations.

See one of our stores for all of the details.

Everything works exactly as it was designed to… (especially if you got your new bicycle from Braun’s )  The brakes are fantastic, the gear changing is extremely crisp, the wheels – well they just spin and spin, like they will never stop going around.  WOW this is what you always imagined cycling was about.  You sit, you pedal, you look around, you enjoy.  What’s that you feel, why it’s the wind in your face.

Sadly though, all new experiences must come to an end.  Eventually, you must return and your first ever bike ride on your new bicycle will end.  You will have to stow your steed where it’s going to live.  You might even lean over  give your bike a pat “Good job”, you say, as you begrudingly go inside.  Then suddenly – a new thought strikes you.  You almost laugh out loud.  Yes of course.  We can go out riding again tomorrow. 

Thus it goes.  And then, all of a sudden you realize that you have been enjoying your baby for a week or two already.  What a great decision you made in getting her.  Strap on your helmet, put on your cycling gloves, Velcro on your shoes, and lets get going.  But then one day: Wait a minute.  What’s going on?  What is the horrific noise?  Oh my goodness, my chain has fallen off.  What’s going on.  Or you slam on your brakes and a horrible sound emerges from somewhere near your wheels. 

Where did my amazing new bicycle go.  It doesn’t work like it did any more.  What gives?  Well – nothing unexpected has happen.  You have just experienced what is normally called a bike’s break in period.  Every new bike that is ridden goes through this.

New bicycles require a break-in period of 50 to 100 km or approximately 2 to 4 weeks.  New brake and gear cables will stretch, etc.  Bearings may seat causing them to appear to loosen.  Some of the bicycle’s parts may slightly loosen with the initial experiences.  The brakes may make a strange sound or squeal as they seat.  This is all normal and an expected experience for a new bicycle to go through.

So what do you do?  Well, at Braun’s, we recommend that after the break-in period you bring your bicycle into one of our Service Departments when you can leave it with us.  Then one of our professional service technicians will perform the required maintenance to put your baby back where she belongs in perfect working order.  Doing this will extend the life and enjoyment of your bicycle. 

After all she’s done for you – it’s the least you can do for her – wouldn’t you think?

Commuting in the winter is a bike destroying, part wearing, nasty for all parts mess. Hate to burst your bubble, but it’s true. There is nothing good about road salt for the cyclist or the bike. It gets in everything, destroy’s parts prematurely, ruins clothing, and tastes awful.

So what can you do to make it more bearable? Walk?….Drive?….Take the bus?….none of those options are open to the winter commuter. So here is my quick checklist for the winter hearty bicycle commuter.

Ride a piece of crap junk, or pay the price. If you ride your good bike, I guarantee you will be buying a new drivetrain in the spring…maybe more. Disc brakes, electronics, most fabrics and winter do not play well in the same sandbox.