Happy Spring,

Why should we have to make sacrifices for convenience?  Does that not negate something actually being convenient?

So what changes with bikes?  More often than not, I see a lot of our customers come into the shop with preconceived notions of what a bike has to be.  The biggest is probably comfort and that’s unfortunate but yet a reality of what bikes used to be.  The other large feature of a bicycle that I think attracts a lot of new cyclists is convenience and ease of use.  Bikes should be something that you can get on, ride and, smile.

Montague folding bikes offer up a few solutions to make your cycling adventures easy and convenient without any sacrifices and may change your mind about riding a bicycle.  What sets Montague apart from many other folding bike companies is that they make full size folding bikes, not the small 16 or 20″ wheels you may have seen in the past.

Headquartered in Cambridge, Massachusetts, Montague Bikes was started by David Montague, a MIT graduate student, while in school.  The company mantra has always been convenience, ease of use and foldable, in fact I couldn’t have put it any better than the guys at Montague themselves in this website quote about the companies history:

“A company focused on designing and producing full-size, high-performance bicycles that fold — bicycles that sacrifice nothing in performance and still provide the folding benefit for space saving convenience.”

How many times have you found yourself giving up the bike for an alternate pass time or mode of transportation due to lack of space?  Montague may entice you to think twice with one of their great folding bike options.

The advantage of having a full size folder is that you have the very familiar feel and predictable handling of a regular bicycle.  A full size folder removes any concern of  where you need to store it.   It is easy to get to work or put it on a bus or train, the bicycle folds in seconds.

Montague offers a variety of folding models to choose from.  Perhaps one of the more interesting bike is the original Montague – the Paratrooper.

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The result of a two year grant from the US Defence Advanced Research Projects Agency (DARPA) to design an electric bike for the Marine Corps!  Talk about tough!  The basic design on the paratrooper has gone on to inspire several different models from Montague such as the Swissbike series.

Recent other additions to the Montague line up have included the more urbanized Boston and Boston 8 (Boston pictured below), perhaps THE perfect commuter bike.  The Boston comes in a very pure and simple single speed, where it’s bigger brother comes in a Shimano Nexus 1 x 8 speed configuration-weather proof and low maintenance.  Both bikes have 700 c wheels rather than the 26 ” found on the paratrooper and swiss bikes.

If you enjoy traveling, why not bring your bike along with you?  Montague offers carrying cases in hard shell or soft shell variants to make travel, especially by air, a lot easier.  Again, the list of convenience features for your favorite outings go on, camping or for the RV?  What about boating?  What a great way to visit a few ports enjoy our great Canadian landscape or tour around the cottage.

Montague offers you an alternative to the traditional bicycle without any inconvenience or hassle that you may have been previously trying to contend with.  Go forth ride and be happy!  Simply,  your problems may have just been solved.

Till next time.

P,

SPRING IS HERE – Right!

We’re ready for spring, the question is, is your bicycle ?  Even if you don’t ride through the winter, simply storing your bike in a shed or garage can cause problems with your bikes.  Of course this isn’t a write up about all the things that can go wrong with your bicycle.  We want you to ride and be ready for the lovely weather ahead and our service teams at either of our locations are here to help.

Braun's can fix this!

We do repairs to all makes and models of bicycles.  An easy way to accomplish this is by having your entire bicycle checked over and repaired with our Deluxe Bicycle Tune Up Service plan.

This plan includes the labour for the following:

• Adjustment of front and rear derailleurs
• Adjustment of front and rear brakes
• Tighten front and rear gear shifters
• Tighten front and rear brake levers
• Properly install and tighten front and rear wheels
• Check and inflate front and rear tires/tubes
• Quick cleaning of frame and components
• External lube of drive train and brakes
• Tighten and inspect all accessories
• Truing/tensioning/dishing of front wheel
• Truing/tensioning/dishing of rear wheel
• Adjustment of front and rear hubs
• Adjustment of headset
• Adjustment of bottom bracket
• Inspect and tighten cranks and pedals
• Inspect and tighten all components on bike

If you’re not quite sure what your bike needs, no problem, our knowledgeable mechanics can make suggestions for you.

Now you don’t really need to know what any of the above list means.  Just know that your bicycle will proform very well after having the above Deluxe Tune Up done to it.

All this for only $79.98 per bike (parts extra)

Please note:  The pricing for this service plan only includes the above listed labour.  It does NOT include any required parts or the installation labour for these parts. 

Beat the spring rush and get your bike in shape for the dry pavement.

P

Think positive.  Repeat after me.  Spring IS almost here, SPRING IS ALMOST HERE!!

We are all probably ready for spring, the question is, is your bicycle ?  Even if you don’t ride through the winter, simply storing your bike outside in a shed or garage can sometimes cause problems with your gear or brake adjustments and cables  due to moisture and salt in the air.  Other things you want to make sure are functioning in good working order are tires, tightness of bolts, cranks, bottom bracket, brake pads and the list goes on!

Of course this isn’t a write up about all the things that can go wrong with your bicycle we want you to ride and be ready for the lovely weather ahead and our service team at either of our locations is here to help.

We do repairs to any make and model of bicycle but we also offer several service plans for your convenience.

Our PITSTOP SERVICE PLAN is one our most popular and is designed with the needs of the recreational cyclist in mind.  It includes the labour for the following:

• Adjustment of front and rear derailleurs
• Adjustment of front and rear brakes
• Tighten front and rear gear shifters
• Tighten front and rear brake levers
• Properly install and tighten front and rear wheels
• Check and inflate front and rear tires/tubes
• Quick cleaning of frame and components
• External lube of drive train and brakes
• Tighten and inspect all accessories

If you classify your riding as a little bit more than recreational or, perhaps your transportation tool of love needs a bit more work than our Pitstop plan, than you probably want to get set up with our DELUXE SERVICE PLAN. 

The Deluxe includes everything that the Pitstop plan includes plus the following:

• Truing/tensioning/dishing of front wheel
• Truing/tensioning/dishing of rear wheel
• Adjustment of front and rear hubs
• Adjustment of headset
• Adjustment of bottom bracket
• Inspect and tighten cranks and pedals
• Inspect and tighten all components on bike

 If you’re not quite sure what your bike needs, no problem, our knowledgeable mechanics can suggest a service plan that will be right for you or can quote you on whatever has to be done

Beat the spring rush and get your bike in shape for the dry pavement.

P

Hey everyone,

Hope you’re all enjoying the frosty mornings and cool evenings that have quickly crept up on us. For some people, the first signs of snow and ice are the end to the riding season… they pack their gear away, store their bike in their basement and wait for the snow to melt before they get back out there. 

For others, the winter season offers a unique and enjoyable experience in the area of winter riding. Many people commute year round, and this group comprises the majority of the winter category. The smaller portion continue to ride through the winter for personal enjoyment, with the smallest portion continuing to trail ride year round!

No matter which style of winter riding you choose to participate in there are many factors that need to be carefully considered before doing so, choices such as clothing, gloves, footwear, and hydration are all vital factors in enjoying your winter ride. More importantly though, is making sure that your bike is up to the challenge. There is various maintenance that should be performed during the winter season, and I will cover these aspects throughout the season as the weather dictates. For today… I am going to focus on Studded Tires!

Studded tires are just that, tires with metal studs (can be made from various steels, carbite, etc) mounted in them to incresase traction, handling and control during the winter season. Similar to the concept of snow tires on a car, they also utilize a softer rubber compound to enhance grip on ice and frozen surfaces.  Studded tires are available in both 26″ and 700c sizes with various profiles to ensure fitment on just about every ride. There are various different styles of studded tires, from full stud, to partial stud, and I will help to differentiate between them.

Full Studded Tires have a what is considered a full studded pattern where metal studs are found on both the running surface (center of the tire) and the shoulders (the edges of the tire). The studs on the shoulders are to provide grip when cornering and the running surface studs provide increased traction for accelerating and braking. These tires are designed for more extreme riding conditions, and typically utilize 260-300+ studs per tire to provide the ultimate traction abilities. An example of a full studded tire is the Schwable Ice Spiker Pro, which is a heavily studded tire design for trail and extreme use.  

Partial Studded tires consist of either running surface or shoulder studs. They are designed to be used on predominately ice and predominately pavement respectively. Partial studded tires offer benefits for riders whose roads are normally plowed and salted and those who are always fighting with a road less travelled. These tires can be used in pairs, as well as in split sets (one drive tire, one directional tire).

Shoulder studded tires are desgined for those who commute on roads that are well maintained. They have metal studs on the edges to provide traction while cornering, but not reduce rolling resistance while on plowed surfaces. These tires are best for city commuters whose road is normally well maintained.

The 700c Schwable Snow Stud Tire is a good example of this.

In contrast, the centre ridge studded tire is designed for those riders whose road consists of that which is normally covered in ice. It has cente ridge studs that provide excellent traction during acceleration and braking. An example of this is the Schwable Marathon Winter tire is a good example of this.

It is important to note that many other different styles and manufactuers of tires exist, and that those listed only represent a fraction of those available. Partially studded tires can be used in matching and staggered pairs to tailor your style of winter riding.

No matter what, do not forget to adjust to your riding conditions, obey the rules of the road and always wear a helmet.

Until next time…

Always consider that the ability of the rider, greatly outweighs the capability of the parts.

Bryan!

Hey Everyone!

It’s that time of year. The kids are back to school.  The days are starting to get shorter and the perfect time for riding is approaching us.  The mild temperatures of fall allow for excellent conditions no matter what riding style you enjoy.  The cooler temperatures and autumn breezes help to keep you cool and push your potential every ride!

This week’s post is going to be application specific and may relate to either you directly or someone you know who is unsure of the best upgrade for their rig. One question which is often posed to me in the shop is:

“I ride both on the road and on the community trails… although I find my knobby tires really slow on pavement I do not want to sacrifice the loss of traction I would experience on the trails for the gain in speed.  What should I do?”

Okay, well maybe the question isn’t quite this perfectly worded… but this is typically what I conclude after a short conversation with a customer in this dilemma. With my previous experience in tire selection, there is now no debate in answering this question! Companies such as Continental and Schwable have risen to the call of consumers and produced tires for these applications! They can be identified by many names such as: semi slicks, commuter tires, hybrid tires, cross tires, etc. I personally find “semi slick” to be the best definition as it describes the tread pattern of these tires perfectly. Tires such as the Continental Travel Contact and the Schwable Mararthon Cross are both designed with a raised centre ridge for less rolling resistance on hard packed surfaces and knobbed sections on the edges of the tire for better traction on lose terrain.

Differences between the two are minimal.  However, as a result of the variations in tread pattern, the Schwable would handle loose terrain. This is due to the traction ridges built into the drive ridges of the tread pattern. In contrast, the Continental tire would be better for higher percentage road use due to the solid centre ridge which would practically eliminate rolling resistance on the road.

The Schwable and the Continental both offer excellent traction for exploring the trails and will allow you to maximize your potential on the road when you are negotiating with only a single rig. It is a cost effective alternative to multiple wheel sets and does not force you to sacrifice speed for traction or vice versa.

The Schwable and Continental are available in both 700c and 26″ sizes which means there is sure to be one to help update your rig!
(26 x 1.75, and 700 x 38c and 700 x 37c respectively)

If you have any questions about either the Schwable or Continental be sure to drop by the shop or drop me a line and hopefully I can clear up and questions you may have.

Until next time,
Keep a grip so things don’t get away from you!

Bryan

Hey everyone,

As I continue to direct my posts towards bike service and maintenance I found it coincidental that I had a customer in the other afternoon who was in need of some tools in order to service various aspects of his bike. This got me thinking: some people may not even know the tools required, let alone what they are called. I hope to outline the name and functions of these various tools today, as well as some tips which can make their use easier. In the post I will outline a variety of tools  from Park Tool. They are a highly innovative company and have designed many of the tools used in everyday service applications. They are also our tool of choice in the service department at Brauns. There are many other tools available and what I am showing you is only an example of each. Be sure to speak to any of our technicians in the service department to ensure you select the correct tool for the job. A link to Park Tool’s website can be reached by clicking the highlighted name.

Hex Wrenches:

-Hex wrenches are used to adjust and install various components on the bike.
- 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5 ,6, 8 & 10mm Hex wrenches are the sizes most commonly used in maintenance.
- The Park P-handle Hex Wrench Set(ph-1)is perfect for all service applications.

Pedal Wrench:

-Pedal wrenches are low profile 15mm wrenches used for the installation and removal of pedals
-The Park Pedal Wrench (pw-3) is an excellent tool offering significant torque to free even seized pedals.

Crank Puller:

-A Crank Puller does exactly as its name implies. This tool is used to remove both the drive and non drive crank arms from the bottom bracket spindle. This tool is available both with and without attached handles and for both splined and square tapered spindles.
-The Park Tool Crank Puller (CCP-2C) is a self functioning multi-purpose crank remover.

Bottom Bracket Tool:

-This tool is difficult to describe. We will ignore non sealed bottom brackets and deal with them at a later time because the tools required and procedures necessary are far more difficult. For sealed bottom brackets, there are two types of tools: external bottom bracket tools, and internal bearing bottom bracket tools.
-The Park Bottom Bracket Tool (BBT-9) removes external bearings while the Park Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool (BBT-2) is designed for servicing internal bearing bottom brackets.

Freewheel tool:

-A freewheel or cassette tool is used either individually or in combination with a chain whip to remove a cassette or freewheel.
-Freewheel tools are used to spin the freewheel off a threaded section of the hub. Cassette tools are used to remove the cassette lockring so that the cassette can be slid off the spline of the freehub body.
-The Braun Cassette Tool has become a personal favourite in the service department!

Chain Whip:

-A chain whip is used in combination with a cassette tool to spin the lockring off the freehub body so that the cassette can be removed.
-The Park Sprocket Remover (SR-1) provides excellent grip on the cassette to aid in removal.

Cone Wrenches:

-Cone wrenches are available in a range of sizes from 13-19mm and are used for adjusting the cones on hubs for smooth rolling bearings. Cone wrenches are required to be used in sets, and can be double sided for maximum efficiency.
-The Park Shop Cone Wrench (SCW) are the best in the business!

Chain Tool:

-Chain tools are used for cutting and sizing chains, and installing pins for connecting the ends of a chain. The tool required varies depending on the number of speeds the chain is designed for. (10 speed chains require specialized tools in order to remove and install links)
- The Park Screw Type Chain Tool (CT-3) offers excellent feel for pushing pins into chains for a stiff free connection.

Proper Chain Lubricants:

-By proper, I mean to imply that although that synthetic 5W-30 you run through your engine does it wonders, the chain on your bike would beg to differ! Selecting the correct lubricant for your bike chain requires some knowledge of your riding habits, as well as your maintenance habits. A consultation with one of our service technicians can help you select the best lubricant for your riding and service habits!

-Teflon Dry, Wet Based and Wax Based lubricants highlight just a few of those available for use.

-Teflon Dry is our shops house lubricant and is the best “all around” lubricant on the market.

Proper degreasers:

-Proper degreasers are equally as important as proper lubricants as they help to prep the surface and remove grime. There are both citrus and acid based degreasers which will both effectively clean drivetrain components and chains. Aerosol degreasers tend to be most effective in hard to reach areas and liquid degreasers tend to be better with cassette and chain cleaning.

Finishline Aerosol Degreasers simplify the process!

Tire Levers:

-Tire levers assist in removing difficult tires with tight beads from the rim in order to change punctured inner tubes or install new tires. Tire levers are most effectively used in pairs, and are often sold this way.

-Pedro’s makes the best ones on the market! They offer a Lifetime Warranty and have a no questions asked replacement policy! We have trouble keeping these things in stock! A must have for your pack or tool box at home.

Spoke Wrenches:

Spoke wrenches are specialized wrenches that fit in the nipples of spokes to adjust spoke tension and effectively true the wheels on your bike. There are three different standard sizes of spoke wrenches and several specialized sizes for performance and classic wheels. Major wheel truing should be left to trained professionals, however, being able to temporarily straighten your wheel can really get you out of a jam!

-The Park Spoke Wrenches (SW-0 – SW-3) is one of the biggest bangs for your buck when it comes to at home tools!

If there are any tools you feel I should have included, let me know and I will highlight them in one of my upcoming posts. Just remember that not everyone will make use of a Park Tools Bottom Bracket Facing Tool at home.

Until next time…
I hope to see you out there. Drop by and visit at the shop!

Bryan

Safety Equipment

Safety Check

Basic Bicycle Safety Checklist:

Bolts/Quick release levers

Check that bolts and/or quick release levers on the seat, seat post, handlebar stem and axles are tight.

Headset

Check that it turns freely and doesn’t rattle.

Brakes

Check that the nuts on the brakes are tight. Brake pads should not touch the rims unless you are squeezing the brakes. Brake levers should stop at least 2.5 centimetres from the handlebars when the brakes are fully applied.

Axles

Check bearings for looseness by shaking the wheel side to side. Make sure quick release levers are clamped tight.

Shift Levers

Derailleur levers should move easily only when shifting. A screw or butterfly nut or similar device lets you adjust the movement of some types of shifter levers.

Derailleur Movement

On derailleur bikes, try shifting through all your gears and make sure your derailleur does not throw the chain off the sprockets.

Tires

Inflate to the recommended tire pressure as shown on the tire.

Spokes

Check for and replace loose, bent or broken spokes.

Wheels

Make sure wheels are centred in the forks and not touching the brake blocks. Check the rim for side-to-side wobbles and up and down hops by watching the wheel spin past the brakes or frame. More than half a centimetre of wobble is cause for concern.

Coaster Brakes

Check that the bolt holding the brake arm to the frame clip is tight.

Helmet

             Make sure that your helmet meets safety standards (e.g. Snell, CSA, ANSI,   ASTM, BSI, SAA, CPSC) and has not been damaged in a collision.

Keep your bike secure

Always carry a quality bicycle lock when riding and always lock your bike and quick release items like your wheels and seat to something solid.

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Over the next number of blogs we will cover Safety Equipment (Sizing, Safety Check, Helmets, Visibility), Handling Skills, Riding in Traffic (Where, Intersections, Signs and traffic signals, Dealing with trucks and buses), Obstacles and Road surfaces, Cycling and the Law and Electric Bicycles.  Stay tuned for the next few weeks as we cover some important information to keep YOU safe while cycling!

Watch for” CYCLING SKILLS (Safe Cycling)  Part 3 – Safety Equipment -Helmets” in the Blog on Monday, August 2nd.

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The above information is taken from the Government of Ontario website and addresses “Ontario’s Guide to Safe Cycling”.  For more information please see http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/pubs/cycling-guide/index.shtml .

Hey everyone,

Okay… so maybe the title for this blog was a little bit misleading! But the info I have for you could be life saving if you find yourself stuck on the trail with a flat tire!

When it comes to getting a flat, nobody likes having to deal with it on the ride… in fact I know a few guys in the shop hmm hmm… who have even been so lazy as to call family members to pick them up so they didn’t have to change the flat on their ride. For the rest of us… the diehards… there are a few items you can pack, and a few pieces of advice you can follow to get you back up and running in no time!

As we discussed in my earlier blogs, you will want to pack: tire levers, a spare tube, a patch kit and a pump along with the rest of your gear.

The steps for this procedure are fairly simple:

1.) As discussed in prior posts, find an upright place to hang your bicycle by the seat in order to work on it. This will make the going easier.

2.) Release the brake mechanism (if applicable, a mechanic in the shop can advise you on how to do this for your bike) and remove the wheel (yeah, I guess the flat one would make sense…) from your bike.

3.) Take a pair of tire levers, and insert them between the tire and the rim on one side directly opposite the valve stem.

4.) Clip the first tire lever to the spoke as a starting point, then, using the second lever; pry the bead of the tire off the rim, and work the rest of the bead off of one side.

5.) Remove the tube from inside the tire (valve first) and inflate it slightly to determine the cause of the puncture to the tube. If the flat resulted from an internal puncture (ie a snakebite) there is little need to check the tire for foreign objects. However, if the flat has been cause by an external puncture, ensure that you check the area inside the tire that corresponds to where the tube was punctured. (Note: it never hurts to check the tire anyways, better safe than sorry!)

6.) Once the tire is clear, you next need to inflate the new tube slightly to give it shape (this will make installation easier.)

7.) Insert the new tube, starting at the valve stem, and slowing inserting the tube around the tire. (it is crucial at this step to ensure the tube is not twisted, as this will cause the tube to fail.)

8.) Once the tube is installed, you will then want to re-mount the bead of the tire to the rim. This is done using both hands, and putting the tire under the hook of the rim. Start at the valve, and seat the tire in this region first, then work your way around the tire using both hands in opposite directions (as to not lose your starting point.)

9. Once you have re-installed the tire onto the rim, slowly inflate the tube (checking that the tire is properly seating on the rim all the way around.) Inflate the tire to your preferred pressure, then once again check the bead of the tire to ensure it has seated evenly around the rim.  (If you are not happy with the way it looks, deflate, and re-inflate the tire checking the bead constantly and filling slowly.)

10.) Re-install the tire on the bike, and re-connect any brake mechanisms that were detached for removal.

11.) Pack your gear back up, hop on your bike… and head out!

Didn’t mean to mislead you guys with the title… but I’m sure you’re all glad you read this one!

Until next time,
Check your pressure regularly!

Bryan

Hey everyone,

It has been a busy week at the shop and I have been helping my parents redo their deck, which, with our weather taking a turn for the better leaves me wishing I were out on the trails more. I figured I would offer some advice on how to get your bike back up and running if you happen to have chain problems on the trail.

To begin… as unfortunate as it is… everyone will break or damage a chain at some point in time.  In the case of mountain riding, too much tension on a climb, or catching a log while in the big ring can damage the chain and result in breakage or a stiff link. Not to worry, as both concerns can be resolved.  For the roadie type… an over exerted chain resulting from a missed shift or shifting error can cause similar problems.

-Seen above is an example of a stiff link that can be found in a chain (this will cause shifting and riding difficulties).

Follow these steps and your problems will be solved.

1.) To this problem there is one simple solution… get your rig back up and running at the side of the road without losing too much time off your ride.

2.) In order to resolve this problem you will need the following tools:

-A decent chain tool
-A quick link connecter
-Some patience (the latter of the three being the most important!)

3.) When you have a chain concern, your best option (be it road or mountain) is to pause your ride and stop where you can suspend your bike in an upright position:
-using the surroundings available, i.e. a tree, bench, guardrail, etc.
(This allows work to be more easily performed on the bicycle as it is upright and will function similar as to when you are riding it! (try not to work on your bike upside down.)

4.) Next, using your Park CT-3 (seen above) or similar tool, remove the stiff link, or fabricate two female ends to prep the installation of a quick link. This will allow the fastest, no issue install.
It is easiest to make these adjustments when the chain is not highly tensioned, so shifting the chain into the smallest rings (front and rear) will make it easier to repair the bike.

-When fixing a stiff or broken link it is important to remove the damaged portion (even if it makes the chain too short). This will help to ensure tensile strength in the chain.

5.) Check your regular riding  gears to ensure it will not cause any shifting problems and that you have removed any other stiff links.

*Note* For fixing broken chains: you are best to use a powerlink when your chain is new, however, pushing the pin on a link is better when your chain is aged. On those weekend trips up to the trails it never hurts to bring an extra chain along… just in case you have one of those days!

Until next time, keep your chain stressed, but not your nerves!

Bryan!

Hey everyone,

It has been a long and rainy week, and I have not been able to enjoy as many rides as I normally do. This has allowed me to further appreciate my morning commutes into the shop and made me analyze the many different styles of bikes available and the different applications they are designed for.

In this post, I hope to identify and distinguish between the different bikes that are available and the applications and riding styles for which they are designed. This can be significant when looking at purchasing a bike or when determining if the bike you have is the correct one for you.

There are 4-6 different styles of bikes available depending on how you divide up the styles.  However, I will break them down into the 6 full categories to give you the best comparison between them.

First, there are what are known as Road bikes (see above): these bikes typically have 700C or 650C wheels and are designed with an attack geometry to favour speed, over comfort or functionality. These bikes are fully rigid and can be made of materials from Steel to Carbon Fibre. They are available in all component levels and can extend from recreational to race or competitive models. Road bikes are designed strictly for road riding as their narrow tires and low gearing range promote high levels of speed on back country roads or the track.

Second, there are devoted Mountain bikes (seen above): these bikes typically consist of wheel sizes from 26″ to 29″ and are designed for durability and speed for use off roads on technical trail sections. These bikes are available in rigid models, front suspension models and full suspension models, depending on your preference. Further, these bikes are available in all component levels and can extend from recreational or entry level models, to racing or endurance models. Mountain bikes are best for trail riding, as they have  knobby tires and a high gearing range to make clearing all obstacles a possibility.

The third style of bicycle is known as Hybrid bikes (seen above): these bikes typically consist of a 700c wheel size, but are equipped with wider tires, and front suspension (to the riders preference) to make them more practical in multiple riding conditions. These bikes are very common for commuting as they are designed with gearing ratios for in city riding and can be equipped with internal gearing components to make them year round reliable transportation rigs.

The fourth style of bicycle is what`s known as a Cross Bike (seen above):  these bikes are designed with 700c wheels and road components, with gearing ratios to support on road riding  and speed. Similar to road bikes they are fully rigid. However, these bikes are considered cross bikes as a result of their ability to cross over into the mountain trails because of their design with re-inforced wheels and knobby tires which provide grip and control on single track trails. These bikes still have drop bars in a road bike fashion, yet they are equipped with mountain levers to offer better control in multiple riding conditions.

The fifth style of bicycle available is what is known as Comfort Bikes (seen above): these bikes are designed typically with 26` wheels and large volume tires to make the ride as smooth as possible. These bikes are typically designed with front suspension and suspension seat posts to make the ride as smooth and enjoyable as possible for the user. These styles of bikes are currently designed for style as well as function with step-through frames for women, and wooden racks and fenders for style.

The sixth style and final style of bicycle is actually a tricycle! These bikes are known as Adult Trikes (seen above): they are designed with wheel sizes from 20-26″ and are built with two rear wheels and a single front wheel to increase stability. These bikes are designed for light on road use, typically by the elderly or those who have trouble with balance or stability. These bikes have a relaxed riding position and can accommodate all styles of riders to make them multi-functional.

Now that I have discussed the Main styles of bicycles, it is your job to decipher which one best suits your riding style and how you intend to use the bicycle. If you are like myself, one bike will not fit all applications and you will end up with a garage full and have a different one for each day of the week, just like the clothes in your closet.

If you did not see a style of bicycle above that suits your needs, you may fit into a specific category that I did not discuss in this post. These styles of bikes are typically more unique and although widely used… are not as highly demanded as the others. If you have any questions about the styles of bikes I discussed, or what else is available from our retail stores, just ask me in a comment or contact either of our stores!

As always… I hope to see you out there and remember to be careful when riding!

Bryan

Hey everyone!

Now I know that I am supposed to be discussing bike service techniques, and advice on how to get the most out of your bike components. However there are all these topics that I feel are crucial in order for everyone to enjoy riding even more! Once I knock the main ones off the list, I will discuss more service topics, and filter in my professional experience.

Today’s post is all about how to transport your bike!! Now… no matter what type of bike you have, or what vehicle your driving, there is a right and wrong way to transport your ride and I’m here to help you find the best way to move yours.

As always, we will begin with the basics and go from there…

You can either transport your bike inside your vehicle or on the outside. The preferred method is on the outside of the vehicle, as it helps to keep mud and water from damaging the interior of your vehicle, and it helps to keep from damaging the bicycles components.

However, if you must transport your bicycle inside the vehicle, do so with the drivetrain components facing upwards, and be sure to prepare the vehicles interior (with a blanket, or rug) to protect it.

The preferred way to transport your rig is on the outside using one of various styles of bicycle auto racks. In this category, there are three different styles: first, trunk mount racks, second, hitch mounted racks and finally roof mounted bicycle racks. All of which have benefits, and are preferrable for different styles.

Trunk Mounted racks, such as the Saris Bones 3 Rack (seen above) are an excellent option for people who occasionally transport recreational style bicycles, on multiple vehicles. The versatility of a trunk mounted rack is that it allows for use on multiple vehicles, and can be adjusted to fit vehicles of almost every style. Trunk mounted racks are capable of carrying anywhere from 1 to 4 bikes that are able to be mounted by the frame.
That is where trunk mounted racks are limited, as they require the frame to be hung onto the rack for transport, and will not accommodate small frame sizes, step through frames, downhill frames, or freeride bikes. Further, it is important to remember that the weight of the bicycles is being carried by the trunk lid, and transporting too many heavy bicycles in this manner can cause damage to the vehicle.

The next possibility for transport is to use a hitch mounted rack. These types of racks mount into the receiver on the vehicle and can carry bikes in either a hanging or platform fashion. The latter of which being the preferred, as it allows almost all styles of bicycles to be transported. A rack such as the Thule T2platform rack is compatible with both 1 1/4″ and 2″ receivers, and can transport from 2 to 4 bikes on a platform. The rack does not make contact with the frame, and secures the bikes using the wheels. This allows it to transport bikes with wheel sizes from 20-29″and any style of frame (from road to downhill). The platform style rack is also lockable, both the rack to the hitch, and the bikes to the rack, which allows you to ensure that your bikes are secure. There are few limitations to these racks, aside from the requirement of having a hitch.

The final style of rack which is good for securely transporting your rig is roof mounted racks. In this case, load bars are attached to the vehicles factory roof rack, or an aftermarket Thule fit kit is added to the vehicle to make almost any vehicle compatible with a roof style bike rack. Bikes mounted onto Thule load bars can be done so in either a fork mounted or upright position. The roof rack method of transport offers a variety of options, and many different units can be used together in an effort to transport a variety of bikes at one time. Fork mounted racks do not make contact with the bicycles frame, and mount to the fork and rear wheel. These racks are excellent as they do not contact the frame, but are not compatible with 20mm axles (found on downhill, dirt jumping, and freeride bikes). Upright racks can either attach to the frame, or can hold the bike via the wheels (an example is the Thule Sidearm Rack).

It is important to consider all factors when determining which style of rack is best for you. A key consideration is if you tow a trailer when transporting bikes (as this directs you towards a roof transport style rack) or if you constantly need to access the hatch of your vehicle…

Any of our sales associates at Braun’s Kitchener or Guelph locations can help to find the perfect rack for all your transport needs. Feel free to drop by the store, and we can further explain all the options to you!

Take care, and until next time, be sure to double check the straps!

Bryan

Hey everyone,

As I was preparing my gear for a ride earlier this week, I began to think… what an awesome topic to touch on as there are so many scenarios to consider when preparing your gear!  Quite often people ride with either far too much gear, or far too little.  Both of which can greatly impact your safety and the enjoyment of your ride!

For this post I will discuss the necessary items for both road and trail rides and help to make sure you have all the essential items. I will break things down into two separate lists, as some of the gear overlaps, but many items differ depending on genre of riding.

Let’s begin with the basics, as these topics will apply to both road and mountain riding. You need a helmet, no questions asked… they are called accidents for a reason!  Depending on the length of your ride, you will want water accordingly. This can be carried in either a CAMELBAK, (more mountain) or in bottles mounted to the frame (more road). (It is important to note that when using camelbaks you only take as much water as you will need, it can be tempting to simply fill the bladder.) Second, you should consider nutrition.  Hammer Gels (make sure you check out Pats post on them!) or granola bars serve as sources of energy when you begin to slow down. Packing food should once again be based on the duration and intensity of your ride.

The gear list for trail riders is all based on the premise that things can and will go wrong.  While preparing for my last ride, I debated if I needed my chain tool (as it was quite warm and boy did I want to squeeze in that Gatorade bottle) but I was glad I fit that tool in!  On one of the last challenging climbs at Puslinch, I snapped my chain, and was glad I had my chain tool to get my rig up and running again. For reasons such as this, you want to ensure you have the right tools and spare parts to fix problems that may arise. My recommendation is a quality multi-tool, such as the Park Rescue Tool MTB-3C. Tools such as this and other multi-tools provide all the necessities you will need to make adjustments and repairs while on your ride.  If you do not have a multi tool, you will want to pack a 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm hex wrenches, a #2 philips screwdriver, a slot screwdriver, a chain tool, tire levers, a three way spoke wrench and 8, 9 and 10mm open wrenches. The final things to pack include a quick link, a spare tube (as the tire levers are no good without it), a high capacity pump, and a patch kit (just in case you have a really unlucky day!)  This list is crucial, as having the right tools can really get you out of a jam and all this can be carried in your CAMELBAK or in your seat bag… that one, is up to you.

For road riders, it is somewhat reassuring that there is less that can potentially go wrong, and therefore, the amount of gear you need to carry is smaller. The likeliness of needing a chain tool, or spoke wrenches is far smaller while riding on the road. The gear list can still include a multi tool, but a more simplistic one may serve more practical for you. Regardless, when heading out for a road ride, you will want to carry 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6mm hex wrenches, a Philips and flat head screw driver, tire levers, Park GP-2 Super Patch Kit and a compact pump.

Ensuring you have the right gear packed can make the difference between an enjoyable ride and a long walk back to the car.  A few questionable items include gloves (as these can be used to your preference) and your cell phone. Although I would not recommend texting and riding, being able to contact the appropriate services can  be very important in case you are stranded due to a blow out or a serious situation is to arise.  I made good use of mine on a road adventure last fall when I had to call a friend to rescue me from a violent thunderstorm about 10km north of Aurora.

Is there anything you take on your rides that you would like to recommend?  What about things you have found you don’t need?

As for me, it’s about time I get ready for my ride into the shop. Let’s hope it’s smooth sailing and a flat free morning!

Until next time… Keep your pack light, but take the gear you need!

Bryan

Hey everyone, my name is Bryan and I am one of the lead service technicians at Braun’s Kitchener location. Starting this week, I will begin posting on the blog as frequently as possible, discussing various mechanical, service, and bike related topics. I will try to cover topics in varying detail and explain any terms or phrases which may be uncommon.  When presented with the opportunity to post on the blog, I just could not refuse and I am excited to share my knowledge and experience with you through my posts. I have worked at Braun’s for my whole bike service career and have developed relationships with all different styles of riders. I know them all from; “weight weenies” to XC riders, to downhill racers and I take every opportunity I get to try a new style of riding. I don’t have a set plan or rigid structure for my posts, so if there are any topics you would like me to discuss, any new products you want me to feature, or any trails you would like me to review, just throw a comment up on the post, and I will try and address your ideas or questions in one of the following posts.

I guess I should tell you a little about myself, before I jump right into the bike specifics. I am currently a student, studying in Health Sciences at the University of Waterloo. I work at the shop part time during school terms, and full time during the summer months. Biking has been a passion of mine since a young age, and I have met many friends and developed many relationships through hitting the trails, or tagging along on a ride.

 During my spare time, I enjoy spending time outdoors, everything from camping and canoeing to hiking and riding. But on those lousy rainy days, there is nothing better than relaxing with a good book. Although riding everything from road to downhill, my preference still lies with cross country as it presents the most trails in this area, and still gets me out in the woods.

We all ride in the service department at Braun’s and when possible we all try and ride together. Sunday’s tend to work best for everyone because that is the only day the shop is closed, and having all day allows us to go for longer rides and push ourselves further. Riding with other people is beneficial no matter what skill level you are. Having other people to encourage you or talk to while on a ride can make it both more enjoyable, and more beneficial.

Here in central southwestern Ontario, Hydrocut and Puslinch Lake are my two favourite local trails, with Puslinch marginally edging out Hydrocut due to its high speed factor and gorgeous scenery. However there are many other scattered around the province, (particularly the northern region) which offer excellent rides and a variety of riding conditions.

It’s about time for me to prep the gear and hit the trails, I’m thinking hydrocut tonight… maybe see if I can better my speed through a few of the more technical sections on the trails.

Until next time, hope to see you out there, and keep a finger on the brakes: you never know what will happen!

For LIFE – Really?  Like for more than a year or two?  YES – for the entire time that the original owner owns the bicycle.  Maybe 3 years, or 5 or whatever.  When Braun’s says Lifetime we mean it (We’ve been in the bicycle business for 85 years now).

There are two main components to our Lifetime Service Program.

• The New Bike Break-in Check
• Service Package (as described below)

Our Service Package Includes the following

1. Adjustment of front and rear braking systems
2. Adjustment of front and rear shifting systems
3. Adjustment of the headset bearings
4. Adjustment of the bottom bracket bearings
5. Tire Pressure check
6. External lubrication of the drive-train
7. Minor wheel truing (straightening of wheels on the bicycle)
8. Visual tire inspection

When you have purchased the OPTIONAL Lifetime Service for your new bicycle from Braun’s you may enjoy any of the above services in one of our service departments whenever you need to.  Just bring the bike in when you can leave it with us.  We’ll do the rest.

For the life of your bicycle.

Now what do you do if you made the mistake of picking up your new bicycle and not purchasing the optional Lifetime Service Program?  We allow you 30 days from the date of pickup of your new bicycle to make the decision to get the optional Lifetime Service Program.  You may either call or drop into one of our retail stores and we will get you signed up.  You will need to bring your copy of the bicycle invoice so that we can complete this for you quickly.  If you desire to do this over the phone, then we will need you to also give us your credit card information to process your purchase of this program.

Braun’s Lifetime Service Program is one of the many reasons that families have been purchasing bicycles from our family for many generations.

See one of our stores for all of the details.

You are so excited!  Finally the day has arrived and you get to bring home your NEW baby.  Your brand new bicycle.  It is just perfect.  It fits well, it looks fantastic, it is so smooth, it is going to be just perfect to help you get out there and enjoy the great outdoors.

Everything works exactly as it was designed to… (especially if you got your new bicycle from Braun’s )  The brakes are fantastic, the gear changing is extremely crisp, the wheels – well they just spin and spin, like they will never stop going around.  WOW this is what you always imagined cycling was about.  You sit, you pedal, you look around, you enjoy.  What’s that you feel, why it’s the wind in your face.

Sadly though, all new experiences must come to an end.  Eventually, you must return and your first ever bike ride on your new bicycle will end.  You will have to stow your steed where it’s going to live.  You might even lean over  give your bike a pat “Good job”, you say, as you begrudingly go inside.  Then suddenly – a new thought strikes you.  You almost laugh out loud.  Yes of course.  We can go out riding again tomorrow. 

Thus it goes.  And then, all of a sudden you realize that you have been enjoying your baby for a week or two already.  What a great decision you made in getting her.  Strap on your helmet, put on your cycling gloves, Velcro on your shoes, and lets get going.  But then one day: Wait a minute.  What’s going on?  What is the horrific noise?  Oh my goodness, my chain has fallen off.  What’s going on.  Or you slam on your brakes and a horrible sound emerges from somewhere near your wheels. 

Where did my amazing new bicycle go.  It doesn’t work like it did any more.  What gives?  Well – nothing unexpected has happen.  You have just experienced what is normally called a bike’s break in period.  Every new bike that is ridden goes through this.

New bicycles require a break-in period of 50 to 100 km or approximately 2 to 4 weeks.  New brake and gear cables will stretch, etc.  Bearings may seat causing them to appear to loosen.  Some of the bicycle’s parts may slightly loosen with the initial experiences.  The brakes may make a strange sound or squeal as they seat.  This is all normal and an expected experience for a new bicycle to go through.

So what do you do?  Well, at Braun’s, we recommend that after the break-in period you bring your bicycle into one of our Service Departments when you can leave it with us.  Then one of our professional service technicians will perform the required maintenance to put your baby back where she belongs in perfect working order.  Doing this will extend the life and enjoyment of your bicycle. 

After all she’s done for you – it’s the least you can do for her – wouldn’t you think?

Seeing as it’s Winter in most of the country, and we are primarily a bicycle store, I thinks it’s fitting that we talk about Snow and your Bike.  It’s not a terrible thing to get snow on your bike….It’s just solid water. We get our bikes wet all the time in summer. So if you’re one of the hearty folk who continue to trail ride all winter…have at it. Lube your ride up, wipe it down periodically, and have a wail of a time. You commuters however,  are a completely different story.

Commuting in the winter is a bike destroying, part wearing, nasty for all parts mess. Hate to burst your bubble, but it’s true. There is nothing good about road salt for the cyclist or the bike. It gets in everything, destroy’s parts prematurely, ruins clothing, and tastes awful.

So what can you do to make it more bearable? Walk?….Drive?….Take the bus?….none of those options are open to the winter commuter. So here is my quick checklist for the winter hearty bicycle commuter.

Ride a piece of crap junk, or pay the price. If you ride your good bike, I guarantee you will be buying a new drivetrain in the spring…maybe more. Disc brakes, electronics, most fabrics and winter do not play well in the same sandbox.